[gumby79]

Originally Posted by Xist

The air dam on my Accord (and one that I tried on my Forester) were marine wrap. It would undoubtedly look better with shrink tape.

Having the grill completely blocked off was great for the first 75 miles or so, but then I started hitting hills.

Right now it seems like the easiest route is to completely cover the lower grill and put a fire blanket over my engine for the first fifty miles, but needing to stop just for that does not sound like a great plan.

The one you tried on your Forester sure was neat I think a beach ball would have been a really good bow break shape.
I used the industrial 12mill self-extinguishing version shrink wrap on my Aero Toronto prototype. V2 will get Ortex destructive testing.This tape is meant to be a peel off protective barrier when it is applying a super sticky adhesive that will damage paint like gluing the edge of your shrink wrap to your fenders and Hood to get a very smooth transition to the existing shape. At the wind tunnel I used this to fill the gap between the headache rack and the back of the cab, cab to bed Gap, and fill the discrepancy caused by a design attribute in my Aero Tonto to accommodate in removable rear section of a ladder rack , that I will not be including on version 2.
I pick this stuff up last winter and used two pieces over my grill cut to shape nice and neat, much better than the blue foam I had in the upper holes. I try painting the fome and now they resemble a cinder block with all the little holes just a lot lighter than cement. No pics sorry of that. With this whale of a truck I found blocking the radiator with cardboard between the intercooler and the radiator to be more effective at retaining operating temperatures especially in eco mode .stock143-175°f maxVs 100%grill 160--181° ,60% radiator only 175 -192°. I added a panel to fill the open Passage that lead from the opening between the bumper and the body out to the ground between the frame rails with this panel installed and 100% grow block air is forced between the body panel and the bumper and this forms a duct that flows through the front of the radiator bypassing the intercooler increasing my intake air temperatures yet keeping the engine cold according to Cummins for every one degree you raised intake air temperature there is a corresponding 3 degree increase in exhaust temperature on a diesel engine. The downside only the lower portion of the radiators actually cooling the engine the upper section is in stagnant air being warmed by the intercooler and the refrigerant compressor in defrost mode as well as the transmission liquid to air cooler this causes unnecessary activation of the mechanical fan clutch at temperatures lower than the thermostat opens. According to literature from Cummins the fans bolted to their Motors pull anywhere from 25 to 75 horsepower mine is on the 25 or 25 to 35 horsepower range the 25 is more like the 4bt 4 cylinder.

Dream big chisel down to reality