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Old 02-08-2018, 10:59 PM   #10 (permalink)
BamZipPow
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BZP T-100 (2010) - '98 Toyota T-100 ext cab - 3.4L/auto SR5
Last 3: 24 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2011) - '98 Toyota T-100 ext cab - 3.4L/auto SR5
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BZP T-100 (2009) - '98 Toyota T-100 ext cab - 3.4L/auto SR5
Last 3: 19.01 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2012) - '98 Toyota T-100 ext cab - 3.4L/auto SR5
Last 3: 25.45 mpg (US)

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Angel And The Wolf View Post
Or, maybe just a spring loaded second floor, without the end or side pieces. At slow speeds, where you would be enter driveways, the second floor would be held up against the real floor by the spring loaded hinges, but at higher speed, where reverse lift would be produced under the boat tail, the second floor is drawn down by the lower pressure, and keeps the lower pressure off the real floor.

Would this work?

When I was building my diffuser fer the first iteration, I had single bungee cords holding it up. At speed, I got banging from the diffuser gitting sucked down, the air stalling, and then from the lack of suction/negative air pressure, the diffuser would retract back. This would repeat until I slowed down where the bungee cords were able to keep the diffuser in place. I would expect yer design to be similar and would probably function in the same way.

If you do go in the direction of a retractable floor, look at the rear door of the P-51 Mustang.


As far as yer choice in materials, you might want to look at Coroplast and aluminum angle to build out the floor pan with instead of plywood. Waterproof and there isn't a propensity to degrade with inclement weather. It will be lighter and more durable than plywood. It will last longer and be easier to work with and install.

I'm not sure you would want the upper part to be plexiglass as the suggested angle you have would make it rather difficult to see out of especially as the thickness increases.
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