Quote:
Originally Posted by oil pan 4
The warp 11 motor is most efficient around 5,000 to 6,000 RPM if I remember correctly. If you try to run it too slow at cruising speed it will cook. So unless you have a rear diff with a 5:1 or 6:1 ratio direct drive may not be a good option.
All that comes down to speed, tire size and gear ratios.
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The advice I got from Netgain was to run the Warp 11 like a 8 cylinder engine - 2500 - 3500 rpm. Nothing above 5000 as 5500 is 'redline' for the warp 11. I don't remember the test speed - 7000 maybe? - but the balancing putty used on the rotor is not rated for more than 5500.
That seemed like a silly restriction, but it's what I was told.
I was hoping to run at 5000 to keep the amps down and cool as much as possible. That didn't work out.
The calcs I did for my S10 (abandoned project) was about 1000 rpm on a 15 inch tire = 60 mph. So using those numbers 3500 rpm -> 1000 rpm would require 3.5:1 reduction between your motor and the wheel. The differential in your rear wheel drive likely is not that high, so another gearbox would be added between the motor and drive shaft .. I think. There was a guy in Surprise, AZ - Mitchell Yow - that had a single-speed reduction gearbox from 0.9:1 -> 1.5:1 for about $3000, but he included whatever couplers you needed to go from your motor to his gearbox, and from his gearbox to your drive shaft. I have not checked his site for a while. It's here
https://www.torquetrends.com/ev-torquepack
Agree with HaroldInCR - Solition may not be the best choice.
I'd go with Paul Holme's IGBT DC Controller. 1200+ amps at up to 400 VDC. I am running one, just have not got the rest of the car back in shape to be a car. So I have no on-road experience. Just testing so far.
https://pandspowerelectronics.ecwid....=0&sort=normal