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Old 09-18-2018, 01:06 AM   #76 (permalink)
Natalya
Engine-Off-Coast
 
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Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 564

Red 2000 Insight (2017 through 2019) - '00 Honda Insight 5MT
90 day: 64.72 mpg (US)

Red 2000 Lithium Insight (2020) - '00 Honda Insight LTO
90 day: 71.76 mpg (US)
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A couple items...

First:
I have OBDIIC&C and I have a MIMA unit but that isn't installed, but I have it and could install it. Is there a way to use either of those to limit regen braking current to the IMA? I was thinking about this:

Quote:
A faster rate of charge puts more wear/tear/stress on a battery than a slower rate of charge .. so, if you are going to put the same ~4Ah or so into the same battery .. doing so at a slow like around ~250mA rate is more gentle than around a ~2A , and around ~2A is more gentle than around ~20A , and around ~20A is more gentle than around ~50A.. etc.
Remember, my battery is too weak for use in assisting, it loses charge too fast probably due to dead cells in a couple sticks. But I still have it so that I can get Auto-Stop and Engine-Off-Coast with my EFAS button. A difficulty I encounter with that is that if I'm coasting for a while, let's say more than 30 seconds, if I have any kind of electrical load such as headlights or radio it'll take the voltage down until about 157 or 156 volts the batt and brake lights come on. Also, I don't like that I can charge it on the way home but then when I get up in the morning it's down to 156 or so. Anyway, dumping 30 amps into it while going down a hill with the brakes on is certain to hurt those weak//dead cells even more. Since I don't need so much of the energy all at once, is there a way to lower the current, maybe max it at 15 amps or something, using either MIMA or OBDIIC&C or through some other method? I don't want to do any more damage to the battery than has to be done.



Second:
Recently I have come into possession of two more P1449 packs. One of them I know nothing about, it's probably never been grid charged. The other one I know lots about, it's been through grid charging and two complete charge//discharge cycles. Here are the tap voltages on each of the packs.

= Current Pack =
Sat unused for 1 week
Honda refurb pack
A 14.82
B 14.50
C 14.64
D 15.10
E 15.07
F 14.90
G 14.39
H 14.85
I 14.53
J 14.78

0.60 volts difference between highest and lowest tap
148.0 volts total


= Mystery Pack =
Sat unused for 3 weeks
Possibly a Honda pack, but I don't actually know
A 14.40
B 14.90
C 14.70
D 14.80
E 14.85
F 14.57
G 14.62
H 14.91
I 14.98
J 14.82

0.51 volts difference between high and low
148.0 volts total


= Pack that has had grid charging and discharging =
Sat unused for 2 weeks
Honda refurb pack
A 14.70
B 14.62
C 14.93
D 14.71
E 14.77
F 14.57
G 14.79
H 14.62
I 14.72
J 14.91

0.36 volts difference between high and low
147.7 volts total



So, my current pack had the largest stick voltage range even thought I only let it sit for 1 week.
Mystery pack sat the longest, it had 2nd largest voltage range.
Known bad pack that is known to have been grid charged and discharged in the past sat for 2 weeks, and had the least variation.

My easy mode idea would be to do a charge//discharge cycle to the mystery battery pack. Maybe there's life left in it? Or maybe it's total trash. I think it's certain that my current battery pack is trash because it's also been through charge//discharge cycles and it's showing the worst results even though it sat for the least amount of time.

Hard mode idea would be to pull the individual sticks and hunt down the ones with bad cells and throw them away and then make a frankenstein pack of 20 sticks that don't show problems and then balance charge it.

Hard mode has lots of time involved, I don't know if it would be worth it to do that. But maybe it would? What do y'all think? Also, main issue with that is I've never tried to evaluate individual sticks before, so I'd need to learn to do that. And I don't have one of those stick cycling things.
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