View Single Post
Old 09-20-2018, 08:16 AM   #16 (permalink)
aardvarcus
Master EcoModder
 
aardvarcus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Evensville, TN
Posts: 676

Deep Blue - '94 GMC Suburban K2500 SLE
90 day: 23.75 mpg (US)

Griffin (T4R) - '99 Toyota 4Runner SR5
90 day: 25.43 mpg (US)
Thanks: 237
Thanked 580 Times in 322 Posts
Elhigh,

Thanks, good thoughts.

Everyone,

Right now my rear windows start about 1.5” below the roof crown in the back. If I do my idea of starting taper at the back of the roof by sloping only the roof sheet metal, the metal could end up a few inches below the tops of the windows. If I don’t want to impact the windows, it seems like I can:

A: Slope the entire roof equally and have two small window “tail fins.” I don’t know how bad from a drag perspective this detail would be, and if that would be offset by enabling the additional length of the kamm back.

B: do more contouring only in the center to keep the edges above the window. This wouldn’t set up any taper for the outside of the top of the roof.

C: Not do the pre-taper on the roof, and start the idealistic taper just at the rear edges of the windows. This would shorten the effective length of the kamm.

Attached are three concept drawings of A, B, and C as well as photos of the window and rear roof. Ignore the roof rack as these are old photos it has already been removed.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Suburban Roof Slope Options.jpg
Views:	127
Size:	11.8 KB
ID:	24844   Click image for larger version

Name:	Suburban Rear Window 1.jpg
Views:	521
Size:	29.1 KB
ID:	24845   Click image for larger version

Name:	Suburban Rear Window 2.jpg
Views:	108
Size:	17.9 KB
ID:	24846  
  Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to aardvarcus For This Useful Post:
aerohead (09-22-2018)