Due my 12V being practically worthless, I've hooked the IMA back up. IMA light is off and it's charging while at idle (haven't gone for a drive yet since I hooked it back up).
Summed up, my IMA symptoms were/are:
- IMA light & CEL
- No assist or regen indicated on dash display
- No autostop
- Car still starts off hybrid battery
- Car still assists during acceleration (can feel it, but nothing displayed)
- If regen is happening I can't tell due to nothing being displayed
- IMA battery pack at 163V (now 169V after grid charging for an hour)
Will check the ground straps when I take the car into my dad's dealership to get the valves adjusted and general inspection performed. Not sure if they've been replaced or not. Carfax doesn't indicate they are but I haven't gone through all of the maintenance records yet.
If I end up getting rid of the battery due to it being a truly degraded battery rather than ground straps, I'll do a full bypass. By the time the lithium replacement becomes available I'll get a dead pack for the computers like suggested.
If charging at idle is affected, and charging above 4000 RPM doesn't happen (not that I'd rev that high anyway), what's the point of disconnecting the BCM? I thought just switching the pack off let it charge between 1500 and 4000 RPMs but disconnecting the BCM let it charge perfectly at any RPM.
If I get rid of the battery and cut the rear springs, I might just lower the whole car by half an inch, or an inch, for better handling and fuel economy.
Since disconnecting the 12V from the car to disable the battery reset the car's computers, no IMA charge is indicated on the battery despite there being a charge in it yet until it recalibrates. Reconnected the battery, grid charged it from 163V to 169V, and we'll see what happens on the drive into the dealership tomorrow.
If I end up keeping the hybrid battery installed, should I still replace the dying 12V battery? A lithium alternative looks like a fun project if it isn't too complicated, but I don't want to spend the $$$ unless it's necessary.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vman455
I just had an idea (which I think I'll try on my car too):
Find one of the narrow coolant hoses running across the engine bay, if any (in the Prius, there's one that runs across the front of the car, from one of the overflow tanks to the radiator). Slit an oversized duct lengthwise, wrap around the coolant line, tape up. Easy air warmer. It will work best on trips long enough to get the coolant up to operating temperature, and won't be as effective as a dedicated intercooler because of the insulative properties of the rubber, but also not as complicated or expensive. And you could still route the end of the intake duct to the catalytic converter if you want.
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Be sure to post pictures when you do it! I might follow suit. Still have to reconfigure my air intake to make it an actual warm air intake.