[spazatac]

Originally Posted by oil pan 4

You talking on things like campers?

Yes. I used to have a 7000# featherlite toyhauler with all the amenities I towed with a cummins van and got 15 mpg average. It was sweet and I regret selling both, but it was to big to pull where I want to go and I need 4x4.

Originally Posted by Shaneajanderson

My question is why you're wanting a 9K axle on a trailer that it sounds like will only weigh in at around 2-3K loaded (based on your 75% comment.)

I talked to a couple who drove the Yukon trail pulling a bigfoot fiberglass camper. They bent both axles, so I don't want to screw around.

I'm guessing the new 7x16 toyhauler dry will weigh around 3k. Then loaded down with a finished interior, a couple motorcycles and tools and as much glamping gear I can cram in there. Then 100 gallon shower water tank which wont be full, usually.. A 20 gallon drinking water tank. All that crap might weigh 5k so I'm up to 8k or about 75% of capacity which might ride rough.. Hence de-leafing, but this is all speculation. Weight might add up quicker than I think. Maybe it will ride great as is, but I'm thinking I want longer leaf springs if using a single axle, or something to help the ride..

Originally Posted by me and my metro

I would base my axle choice on your tow rig. Use an axle or axles that use the same wheel and tire you run on your truck. Probably one 7k pound axle will use a 16” wheel with your bolt pattern. A straight axle will also provide ground clearance but you will need longer ramps to unload the “toys”.

Exactly.. But the offset of truck rims, mine being 17", is a little more than the centered trailer rims I think so the tires would be to close to the wheel wells or rub. Plus the truck center hole is smaller than the trailer rim center hole. Two hurdles.. And are trailer studs 9/16"? Walter at Jensen trailers said he would use wheels I supply but I haven't figured out how, or how large to enlarge the center hole.

Originally Posted by Piotrsko

If you offroad a lot, have them flip the axle so it's below the spring. Gives you 3" more ground clearance. The only advantage to dual axles is when you blow a tire at highway speeds you may still have something under the trailer holding it up while you pull over & stop. Tire drag would be the least important issue.

I'll use a straight axle. But using trailing arms/panhard bar with airbags or longer leafs would be nice.

Blowing a tire is definitely a concern. Especially since this is a narrow track trailer, meaning no fenders, and the wheels are under it in wheel wells. So, a 7' wide trailer that's over 8' tall? Yeah, I think you just convinced me to use tandem axles. But that limits what type of suspension I use to the stock 2' leaf springs.

The "gap" between the TV and Trailer is responsible for about 25% of the drag of the combo. Possibly this is the area that would yield the most mileage gain. Also no surprise, this would be the most complicated because of the articulation and clearance.