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slowmover · 05-18-2019, 09:42 PM

First off: “RV” dies not denote a motorhome. Boats, jet skis and snowmobiles are all RVs. As well as assorted types of camping vehicles.

Fully self-contained is what one looks for as to independence from re-supply. That independence is what defines it AS a camper, and that is the propane system. To heat the cabin, cook the food and to heat water for cleaning and bathing. Preserve fresh food via refrigeration. And lighting.

There isn’t an adequate substitute for propane.

Just an awful lot of weight, complexity & increased risk in the LEAST IMPORTANT SYSTEM: Electrical.

A system that is barely necessary. (Desire NOT need). Operate the furnace fan and a water pump (which could be manual) are the two necessary electrical draws.

It would sure help this RV were systems addressed first.

It is THE BALANCE of weight, mass and complexity of the SEVERAL systems AGAINST the projected nights aboard WITHOUT external supply of any sort.

Propane makes a camper possible. Water storage & management is a bare second in importance as it is likelier to be the limiting factor of nights aboard without re-supply.

Water is heavy. Fuel tanks on trucks are mounted as low as possible for this reason.

Propane tanks need very particular securement and venilation.

Time to start investigating what is standard to Class C and Class C motorhomes.

Water destroys more campers than anything else. In trailers of my type (see sig link) it is from plumbing leaks. The shortest possible runs are best. My 35’ trailer contains ALL plumbing in one ten foot span on the port side. But it’s complicated in details. One MUST be able to flush lines with air to prevent freeze-up on days where local temps don’t rise above freezing.

Last: Emergency exit from sleeping quarters. Don’t expect to get past a kitchen (where most fires occur; every type).

What’s the weight of the truck? Start there. CAT SCALE (use app). You’ll need baseline numbers to address future tire wear issues, as well as handling, braking and steering issues. See Roger Marbles RV Tire Safety blog (retired tire engineer).

Box trucks are lousy to drive. COE means no crash protection. Shock absorbers on vehicles like this aren’t much good past 30k. They’ll retain the hydraulic oil, but the gas charge will have leaked away. Means more body roll (greater sensitivity to passing vehicles and wind gusts).

That little thing isn’t really meant to be a highway vehicle. Just local in-metro delivery.

What powers the brakes? How robust is that system?

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05-18-2019, 09:42 PM	#78 (permalink)
slowmover Banned Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Fort Worth, Texas Posts: 2,442 2004 CTD - '04 DODGE RAM 2500 SLT Team Cummins 90 day: 19.36 mpg (US) Thanks: 1,422 Thanked 737 Times in 557 Posts	First off: “RV” dies not denote a motorhome. Boats, jet skis and snowmobiles are all RVs. As well as assorted types of camping vehicles. Fully self-contained is what one looks for as to independence from re-supply. That independence is what defines it AS a camper, and that is the propane system. To heat the cabin, cook the food and to heat water for cleaning and bathing. Preserve fresh food via refrigeration. And lighting. There isn’t an adequate substitute for propane. Just an awful lot of weight, complexity & increased risk in the LEAST IMPORTANT SYSTEM: Electrical. A system that is barely necessary. (Desire NOT need). Operate the furnace fan and a water pump (which could be manual) are the two necessary electrical draws. It would sure help this RV were systems addressed first. It is THE BALANCE of weight, mass and complexity of the SEVERAL systems AGAINST the projected nights aboard WITHOUT external supply of any sort. Propane makes a camper possible. Water storage & management is a bare second in importance as it is likelier to be the limiting factor of nights aboard without re-supply. Water is heavy. Fuel tanks on trucks are mounted as low as possible for this reason. Propane tanks need very particular securement and venilation. Time to start investigating what is standard to Class C and Class C motorhomes. Water destroys more campers than anything else. In trailers of my type (see sig link) it is from plumbing leaks. The shortest possible runs are best. My 35’ trailer contains ALL plumbing in one ten foot span on the port side. But it’s complicated in details. One MUST be able to flush lines with air to prevent freeze-up on days where local temps don’t rise above freezing. Last: Emergency exit from sleeping quarters. Don’t expect to get past a kitchen (where most fires occur; every type). What’s the weight of the truck? Start there. CAT SCALE (use app). You’ll need baseline numbers to address future tire wear issues, as well as handling, braking and steering issues. See Roger Marbles RV Tire Safety blog (retired tire engineer). Box trucks are lousy to drive. COE means no crash protection. Shock absorbers on vehicles like this aren’t much good past 30k. They’ll retain the hydraulic oil, but the gas charge will have leaked away. Means more body roll (greater sensitivity to passing vehicles and wind gusts). That little thing isn’t really meant to be a highway vehicle. Just local in-metro delivery. What powers the brakes? How robust is that system? . . Last edited by slowmover; 05-18-2019 at 09:53 PM..