Quote:
Originally Posted by enator
I have been thinking the same thing. having a new winebago with a kit from a third party that makes utility truck conversion was going to be super expensive and useless on the highway. Also the RV parks I checked had 50 amps, but only 110 volts. From what I have heard most RV parks are 110V only. Currently thinking about converting a new stick shift Chevy Colorado and buying a 30ft or less trailer. then add on a dual AC-30 motor and 40-100kwh of batteries...
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The tow vehicle drivetrain isn’t nearly as important as having a truly aerodynamic travel trailer. And man trans hasn’t been “better” since roughly 1956 (the Chrysler TorqueFlite broke the barrier). The advent of six speed autos in 1T diesel pickups circa 2007 even killed off that niche.
And the “best” tow vehicle is still the family sedan. Can load everyone into it. Weighs right at 4000-lbs empty, rides on a fully independent suspension withba wheel base no greater than 122”.
Highway travel increases risk. RVs are notorious for getting people into trouble as they think their lifetime of commuting has relevance.
It doesn’t.
Cutting risk is the game. With the vehicle that is an EXACT fit to solo family use (not pickups).
The Euro-spec Dodge Magnum of a dozen years ago with its turbodiesel was likely the best ever tow/family vehicle.
As it’s the cousin of the still produced Dodge Charger, that vehicle with the V6 drivetrain is suitable for nearly every all-aluminum aero travel trailer ever built.
And as it’s a fleet car, long in production, gremlins got cancelled ages ago. Service anywhere.
You guys are making the same TYPE of mistake with campers found on RV boards. Going camping SHOULD NOT drive vehicle specification, per se.
The
genuinely economical choice is
1). Lowest risk by design
2). Longest life per reliability.
3). Able to tow the trailer.
Trailer shape (plus independent suspension with anti-lock disc brakes) is Job One.
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