Quote:
Originally Posted by justinooo9
So to clarify I did not mean to flat out say im better than most at driving but I drive more cautiously than the majority around me. I have an older brake controller than I have learned my way around for the various goosenecks, 5th wheels, and bumper pull trailers so I feel good enough about its abilities. Sure I could spend an extra $150 for a new controller and wire harness but nah.
As far as tongue weight, tire pressure, balance, all the good and bad about weight distribution of a pickup I have a decent understanding. But A 7.3l v8 will not reach the fuel economy of a straight 6 5.9 cummins without major changes. I barley got 19.5 with a tonneau cover on stock suspension about a 3in rake in the rear with 265/75r16 highway tires.
Now I run a level kit up front with 285/75r16 BFG AT2 tires. I raised my front end up just over 3inches to make the truck level, and added taller/wider/heavier tires. I can get close to 18 empty with the tonneau cover and easy highway driving now and that's really, really working my eco driving skills and only in summer. even with diesel kleen and winter fuel blend I am usually 2mpg less average. plus the snow/road conditions and sometimes needing 4x4 or little aired down tires etc.
Regarding towing. The side by side weighs 1720lbs empty with just gear/and fuel and the trailer weighs a hair under that. My truck on the cat scale with no passengers, just truck close to full tank as I can get and the gear is just under 8klbs. I'll never put the trailer on a scale to get the tongue weight totally perfect... its just not worth all the time. I have been eyeing the position on trailers for years without any negative effects. if I start driving and feel my brake test arnt good enough it takes 5 minutes to unstrap and move the unit a tad bit closer to the front etc. You can plan and plan and plan where to strategically place all the camping gear and food in a 5th wheel and still not be at the most effective pin weight. Im very conservative when towing. I try to almost never exceed the manufacture recommendations for weight limits, I have the over load top spring, front/rear sway bars, 3750 max rated tires very rarely ever needed above 70 of the max 80 psi, a very well maintained front suspension/rear suspension, brakes, steering, ball joints, drag link, track bar, bearings, blah blah. I get it im not an over the road trucker with 10 million miles towing rvs but generally speaking a little side by side and maybe 1500ish lb trailer behind 8k is going to be fine. I check tire pressure, grease bearings, adjust brakes, keep good distance (seems relative to each person these days) and I just plain take care of my equipment. I can only drive as good as I can and hope I can react quick enough to react to my mistake or someone else's.
to get back on the point. Im out of state working for the week but soon as I get pictures. looking for feed back on the trailer set up if any mods would be affordable/worth it on the trailer unit.
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Thanks for the length of reply. My comments are for anyone. Care to guess his often I see pickups operated in a sane manner? Whatever their speed?
Was trailer total weight earlier stated? Still, 10-15% TW needed for stability. Not optional.
A pickup is outside of safe handling speed above 55-mph. My test is a stopwatch to drop a gear (man trans) and get below 45-mph.
How many feet have I used?. Find that number.
Total stopping distance to a complete stop is above 325’ at 60-mph. What’s that distance in highway stripes? (look it up). That’s the minimum distance to maintain from others. Neither alongside, in front or in back. I spend my days cancelling cruise to let the pack of idiots get way out ahead. Let them dissipate. They will. When it involves passing someone slower than me, I do it alone. If I can use terrain, I will.
Back in the days of the 55, we’d call the lead truck the front door, the last guy the back door, and those in the middle
in the rocking chair. That’s what we’re looking for here. Just gliding along on cruise, but subject to slowdowns per traffic.
So, again, find that number: minimum distance for separation.
These are the two operator factors that determine how to use the vehicles rate-of-glide. I want to avoid brake and throttle use, per se, but not to the extent I’m constantly falling back. There’s a balance. (I’ll lay money down that everyone will not use that glide ENOUGH. Not at first).
Count the brake applications for the day. When it’s due to traffic, it’s bad driving skill (meaning room for improvement). You “know” that it’s high priority to screw up the road for everyone else that cars seek always to get ahead of big trucks and anyone towing. Into construction. Near a major exit. Entering. Cases where ROW doesn’t exist for their actions.
So it’s not caution. It’s being able to predict. “Caution” was separation distance. The former is active, the latter, passive. Thus ROW is your court friend. Use it. Insist on it.
If you want those who pass you and then slow to keep moving away, adjust the starboard low beam upwards. Drive always with lights on. You can test it, as I guarantee that lights alone will help this BUT work against you in a pass. First off, cancel headlights. You’ll still have the problem of those matching speed to you unconsciously or pointedly don’t want you in front (dead giveaway if a non-American: cooperation was once the word), just start your pass farther back. I start all of them 350-500’ back. (No ROW in passing lane).
Etc.
For mpg purposes:
1). an engine hour meter plus verified odometer are the most important.
2). Next would TACH + EGT + MAP.
Average MPH against AVERAGE MPG will cut the fuel bill the most once understood.
The latter are for fine-tuning the driving strategy.
6-psi
60-mph
600F
Find the engine rpm on cruise that delivers these most consistently. It won’t be above 60-mph, but it can be a surprise where 2-mph makes a significant difference.
62-64/mph is the Interstate sweet spot. Always on cruise.
As to what you have on the trailer, tarp it. Round the front if you can. Extend tarp to trailer rear. Test by having observer look at it while underway. Build up empty are is portion behind cargo in some fashion.