[slowmover]

Then that’s the second use of the scales. This post for anyone.

Bed marks to show where to load. “Centered” over rear axle a bad idea (not saying you are). We had marks on flatbed trailers to learn where and how to load. OVERALL vehicle balance big, even with an articulated combination.

TARE WEIGHT: Driver only plus max fuel and ONLY gear kept aboard till the days it’s sold. This is the adjusted empty weight. Gives you an idea of what can be done. This is a required basic.

WHERE to load a box of known weight such that MOST of its weight is AHEAD of the rear axle. With time you’ll be able to eyeball it, but don’t. Use the scales to learn.

First weigh about $12. Every one subsequent that day is $2.

It’s not unknown for me to have to cross the scale three times before I have trailer and truck adjustments to meet legal limits finalized. AND STEERING SAFETY.

Had a vehement argument a short time ago about being under a load (not heavy) where even with tandems pulled all the way forward I was still 10k heavier there than on Drives. (Better to be 1k heavier or more on Drives). That also meant I had an ENORMOUS amount of trailer BEHIND the Tandems. Sail Area. Then set off down the Corkscrew Roller Coaster (64/81 WV Turnpike) with winds, ice and a metric **** ton of other truck drivers incapable of good practice (low IQ) . A no-win set-up-to-fail situation.

What I’m driving at is that with a pickup I’d still generally want some front bias. BUT ALWAYS the mass of weight BETWEEN the two axles. Otherwise, tail out is a distinct possibility. Empty is an immediate sideways slide. Loaded is a deadly slide.

The drive axle is a teeter-totter. Easy to be WRONG with either too little or too much. “Balance” is favoring the area ahead of the axle. Thus, CAT Scale my friend. (See also household moving companies, county dump, etc, for other public scales).

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