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Old 03-16-2020, 04:09 AM   #130 (permalink)
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How do I turn Mom's shed into an office? :)

I do not know what happened, but I lost my message, and I felt that I was nearly finished.

Another day, another answer.

Mom said that I could not build an office. She did not mention a fifth wheel [or a tiny house], but wait until she talks to her friend.

She told me to use her shed. I told her that it was full. She denied it and angrily marched out to prove it.

It was full, but mostly empty boxes that we do not need anymore, and stuff that I can put in storage. There are a many things that I cannot necessarily relocate, but I am willing to share if they are.

She gave me permission to build a small lean-to shed for the tools. I have a bunch of lumber in there, but may use some of it!

It is 8’ tall and a little over 8x14, actually, much like the shed in the second video, but 2’ narrower. It is also 10” off the ground, which is more than I like. This page says that you should be 4” off of the ground. The shed is on cinder blocks, so I could order 4” concrete blocks, and lower it 4”.

I also do not have any idea how level it is, so I should look into that.

The two barn doors aren’t exciting, but I would need to install door handles!

So, I need to insulate the heck out of it, and run wiring . How do I insulate the floor?!

You can read the results of my research below, but I have read that fiberglass and Roxul work as long as they stay dry. Foam board is great if you do not have pests [that may take advantage of fiberglass, too], and spray foam is the best because it seals [although pests could still tunnel into it].

Nobody mentioned one what guy did in a video that I watched last week. He cut foam board a little small, attached it with construction adhesive, and sealed the edges with Great Stuff.

Curiously, he only used 1” of board.

How about I empty the shed, remove the floorboards, jack up the shed, install treated plywood, asphalt felt, and polyethylene, and pour aircrete?

I do not have any idea how well it insulates, but there was that video where he torched a brick that he held in his hand.

I need to see how big the joists are. The studs are 2x4s, seemingly 24” on-center.

Reinstall the floor boards, glue two 2” iso boards, and spray the seams?

I cannot think of anything else to figure out. It is after 01! I need to go to bed!

Floor insulation research:

This lady shoved Roxul between the floorboards and said that she was going to install chicken wire over it: This lady jacked up her shed, installed foam boards with construction adhesive and a nailgun, and complained constantly: This guy said to just use foil-faced bubble wrap: This guy said to not to: Stay Away from Foil-Faced Bubble Wrap

So did this gentleman: The Foil-Faced Bubble Wrap Sham - Understanding Radiant Barriers

This guy just put bubble wrap on the walls! He said you can take it to the next level by stapling foil-faced bubble wrap and then plywood [no flooring, though]: This guy used chicken wire and styrofoam, but mice ran around the chicken wire, and ate the styrofoam. He ripped it out and poured concrete. He said that he should have used waterproof membrane: Random forum post:
Making a foam sandwich seems hard.
Why not put batts in the joists bays, put osb/plywood/etc as a critter guard on the bottom (tape the seams), and call it done?
It is pretty easy to insulate inside the 2x8 joist to R-30 using Roxul mineral wool batts. In the USA, you'll need to order this material from a big box pro desk as 2x8 isn't stocked. You could also, with slightly more effort, use 2 R-15 2x4 batts. In the USA, you may find 2x4 thickness stocked at very competitive prices at big box stores. Obviously you could use fiberglass batts for lower cost but might not be able to get to R-30 fill with fiberglass.
Be sure to follow a standard 16" or 24" o.c. layout (except for the 1 odd bay you'll likely have) or you'll have a high waste factor with fiberglass or mineral wool.
Bear in mind you will likely need a hard layer of material to protect the insulation batts from critters (plywood etc) and a plan to air seal the joists as well (a building tape on the plywood joints is probably adequate). Otherwise, your batts will get destroyed by animals eventually.
Your overall performance will be significantly lower than R-30 because the joists themselves will be closer to R-9. You could mitigate this with rigid foam under the joists but you might struggle to break the thermal bridge to the structural lumber sitting on the blocks or piers. I suspect you would find filling the joists to R-30 performance pretty good without worrying too much about thermal bridging.

This page suggests pulling out the subfloor if at all possible, but it sounds like you would want to put OSB or something underneath. If you cannot remove the subfloor, jack up the shed:
"Oh if you use math, reason, and logic you will be hated."--OilPan4

Last edited by Xist; 05-27-2020 at 01:28 PM.. Reason: Added spaces for clarity.
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