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Fingers crossed!
You could try bench testing the O2 sensor. But...they work differently (obviously) than normal ones. They create current rather than a plain voltage signal. It would take a lot more messing around...hooking power up the toe heated circuits, making an appropriate dummy load to dump and measure the current in to...and then figure out how much current it SHOULD be creating. And if you get the dummy load resistance wrong, your readings will be useless anyway.
The current is bi-directional, to boot. 0 current tells the ECU that it's stoich. Which suggest that if there's something wrong with the sensor - where it puts out no current - the ECU is going to read it as running stoich even when it's not. Quite an annoying fail state. No heated circuits would result in the same, except when you're running it long and hard enough to get it up to temperature.
Maybe if you had driven on it longer, the ECU would have recognized that it's not getting any response from the O2 sensor, and would have thrown a code. Dunno. Dunno how much driving you did with it like that. Dunno if the early ECUs would test the heated circuit or not, like more modern ones do.
Good choice, ordering a new o2...just painful on the pocket book. (I'm cheap, wouldn't do it unless I had to!)
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