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Yeah, the silicone was a quick fix, I replaced the line today and it's all good.
About timing adjustments: do I rotate the distributor counter-or-clockwise to advance it? Can I make adjustments when the car is running? How do I know where the "stock" setting is? I ask because I'm having a problem with the car still running for a second or two after I kill the ignition (changing the plugs helped a bit). Any ideas what else could be causing it?
I had to lie to the car. The manifold bolts are frozen, as are the bolts for the exhaust header where it's cracked. This was messing with the o2 sensor, which is also frozen (making the mixture way too rich). Yeah, fun times. I'm trying to find a manifold, so in the meantime I bought a new sensor and plugged it in, but I sealed it with tape and secured it in the engine bay. Before everyone jumps on the "that's a terrible thing" bandwagon, know that it's only a temporary fix until I find a new manifold and flanges for the header.
I checked my control arm mounting area based on JM's guide. It looked slightly rusty, but a few minutes of sanding showed it to be just fraction of a millimeter of surface rust. I sanded it all down to the metal then hit it with some rust stop primer. Repeated the process for the control arms and a few other areas, then I ran out of the stuff. I'm going to pick up a few more cans and basically coat the underside of the car in it piece by piece.
I talked to the previous owner (and got in contact with the other two previous owners as well, I'm only the 4th) and found out that the car had actually been stored -- covered outdoors -- for 10 years, which explains why there's virtually no "critical" rust but the areas around the lower edges of the doors are so rough.
I also still need the wire color identifiers for the stereo install, so if anyone has those that'd be great.
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