Yea I read the CA trucks have a shunt to read the amps that each glow plug bank uses and if it's too low it sets the CEL. I think I read something like 29 amps or less sets it off which I think would be more than one glow plug since people say combined they draw something like 190 amps.
It does seem that ford makes a lot of one off years, actually there's a bunch of 1/2 year things too. Like early 1999 has the older style 7.3L turbo setup (2in spider) but they designed it with an intercooler so it has the correct setup for the 93.5 (I think that's the starting year) to 98 trucks to convert them. The later trucks, 99.5+ have 3in spiders.
I haven't nailed the year down exactly, but 95 is 100% 7.3L PSD/OBS, either 93 or 94 was the turn over year from IDI to PDS/OBS. The IDI either had the option for a turbo, or they all were turbo for about a year, again another one off thing because the IDI's before that were NA. Of my understanding 95 and 96 are effectively identical, 97 had changes, 98, 99, and you mentioned a 2000 change xD. I think it was 2003/2003.5 for the turn over from 7.3l to 6.0l. It's almost sounding as bad as my dad's old 89 Mazda B2600i, every electrical thing on that truck was like $100(relays etc) and fitment was one year only.
I also found in the manual that what I read wasn't wrong on the tank sizes, but they were not for my truck, 155in wheel base is the "long wheel base" version of the truck with the extended cab. Front tank 19 gal, rear was like 18.2 gal. Did the quick math on what my tanks read before I filled the truck up and it seems like they were quite accurate, within 1-2 gal just doing the math based on 1/4 tank accuracy lol.
I'm looking at replacing all the fluids so I have a solid starting point in knowing when it was last done. Redline makes good stuff, but the price is nice and high too. Not sure what other options are solid for synthetic fluids. For the engine I'm planning on either Rotella synthetic for turbo diesels, or Mobile 1, the rest of the drive line I'm not sure on. The trans/transfer case calls for Synthetic ATF, front is 80w90 (don't remember if it specs for synthetic or not), and rear 75w140 synthetic. Goal is to get a bit lower rolling resistance in the fluids, easier shifts in winter (it's already slow to shift when it's ~20f for whatever fluid is in it now).
Here's the product list for reference for the redline stuff. Before I know it I'll have $1500 in fixing this truck up. Planning to keep it a long time, so the up front cost shouldn't be too big of a deal. Maybe there's just a better place to buy the fluids locally for cheaper, I'm cheap, but I also know oils are critical for longevity, same story with filters.
