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Old 02-24-2021, 03:23 PM   #140 (permalink)
Tahoe_Hybrid
Master EcoModder
 
Join Date: May 2019
Location: California
Posts: 513

2020 - '08 Chevy Tahoe H
Last 3: 18.4 mpg (US)

2021 - '08 Chevy Tahoe H
90 day: 17.08 mpg (US)

2022 - '08 chevy Tahoe LT
Last 3: 14.38 mpg (US)

2023 - '08 Chevy Tahoe
Last 3: 22.61 mpg (US)

2024 - '08 Chevy Tahoe
90 day: 22.35 mpg (US)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ps2fixer View Post
Tell that to my fuel usage vs distance traveled. I know the fuel tanks aren't great for being consistent so that tank might be abnormally high, but not quite that much. The next tank ended up being around 16mpg, averaged together it's still 20mpg, double of what you state.

I don't drive the truck like I stole it, it's a stick, and it's got the highest geared axle it could come with stock, 3.55. The topper on it helps slightly with areo. My dad's is the same thing but 4.10 gearing, no topper, and he was getting 15mpg with a tuner and beating the snot out of it. Both trucks have stock sized tires, not 40in like a lot of people like to do.

Generally speaking, the physical shape of a fuel/gas tank is tapered in at the top, so it should hold less fuel at the top vs the bottom. However if you're using the fuel gauge, then it depends how the OE company designed the float in the tank. I've had vehicles that were very linear like my corolla, while my dad's Camry goes 80+ miles before coming off full. Tank mounted angle and a ton of factors effect the reading including the wiring, connectors etc. It's a resistive based reading.

Anyway, as I drive the truck more, the mpg I'm getting should average out and become more and more accurate. Ball park 20mpg is right in the range I see a lot of people claiming with similar gearing and similar speeds.

Remember, this isn't the 7.3 IDI engine, it's the power stroke. It injects the fuel at much higher pressure which makes it burn better, plus the computer has more control over timing and such. I've seen some claims that the IDI's can do alright, but that's with modifying timing and injection amounts (like tuning a carb).

Empty a 4 cylinder would give better mpg I'm sure, but make the whole vehicle weight 19k lbs and that 4 banger will have a heck of a time with hills. 7.3L isn't my first pick for engine size, there's no real happy medium in the diesel world for Ford's. A cummins swap could give better mpg, but the cost of another truck, doing the swap etc will likely far outweigh any fuel savings I'd have. No point in spending a $1 to save $0.01.



Cylinder deactivation would be a neat concept on a diesel. I wouldn't trust Ford's electronics to do a good job though if it was designed that way from the factory (like their gas 8-6-4 setups, people always seem to have problems with it). I suspect an cylinder not getting fuel for extended times might have excess wear, but I don't know how the oil circuits are in the 7.3L. Moving the "dead" cylinders around would offset that issue, but then it takes a fast computer to process which cylinders to kill and such.

Ironically, I had a through of what the 7.3L would be like as a 4 cyl. It would turn into a 3.65L. I saw a video of someone reworking an engine and claiming to recover enough heat out of the engine to not need a radiator. If I remember right, one of the engines he did was the 4.3L v6, but turned it into a 3 cylinder. The head was removed and I suspect a block off plate was added, not sure how the actual cylinder deactivation was done, might have removed the pistons, or maybe they were left in to keep balance. I can't seem to find the video or any pages about it now. I do remember one of the things he did with the heat was pre-heat the gas coming into the engine. If I remember right, the target was just below the boiling point, or maybe it was over the boiling point but under pressure where it didn't boil till sprayed into the cylinder. I figured it was more on the lines of conspiracy theory, but I don't think the guy was claiming super crazy numbers and he converted several engines.

Anyway, a 3.65L that was tuned a bit hotter than factory with a turbo that works well with it and intercooler might meet my needs for hauling and give good mpg while empty. Most 4 cyl engines seem to be half that size so it would probably have a nice vibration running too lol.

also the cylinder deactivation works just fine if something goes wrong it's operator error i.e 7-10k oil changes...

there is many many engines that ran 1/2 as an air compressor those has the lest amount of "wear and tear"


if you check any AFM engine their will be more wear on the AFM cylinders then the non AFM cylinders

MY AFM engine barely runs at 1800rpm at 85mph (superOD 3.08 rear end) in v4 mode yeah this is less then an actual 4 banger which would be at 3500 to 3800rpm
this is double the weight too...


(the faster the engine runs the more wear it gets)


No vibration running if the correct cylinders are disabled.. all ready told you which ones AFM engines use special lifters for cylinders 1, 4, 6, and 7 which turn them "off" i made a mistake on the other post so it runs 2-3-5-8 cylinders which balances the engine

Last edited by Tahoe_Hybrid; 02-24-2021 at 06:49 PM..
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