[johnathanf1lm]

Originally Posted by Vwbeamer

I didn’t need any special tools to install the lowering kit. I did have a Dewalt ¼ inch and ½ impact wrench. The instruction say you need a coil spring compression tool to do the front struts, but I found it easier just use the weight of the truck and a floor jack under the bottom control arm to slowly release compression on the spring. After you install the new lower spring mount, the strut is short enough to fit back in without the spring compressed, then again use a jack under the bottom control arm to compress the spring. BTW, I think you can buy the proper tool at harbor freight for 35-40 bucks.

I know the majority of people here know, but everyone should be careful around compressed springs.

I don’t have any pictures, but will try to get few today. Honestly I wish the truck was lower, the casual observer won’t even notice it has been lowered. When I took it to the alignment shop they said it looked stock to them.

There won’t be a problem with scraping with stock tires. Toyota designed it so the suspension will hit the bump stop before it hits the fender. Now if you run larger tires, they may hit.

I can hit the bump stop in the rear if I have a couple hundred pounds or more in the back and hit a hard bump. This was only after I lowered more with the ½ lowering block. I have considered taking it out for that reason, or raising the bump stop. I don’t really want to modify the frame, as the truck is still under warranty until Sept 2022. As it is now, I can return it to stock in 6 hours.

Common sense tells me lowering had to have altered the range and calibration of the radar sensor, but it hasn’t given any trouble lights or warnings. I also use the radar cruz control most of the time, and still operates as it did before lowering. I was prepared to pay to have it recalibrated, but it really works the same now.

Yeah I am worried about lowering due to the powertrain warrenty. Sounds stupid but I went to school for automotive and hear horror stories about how bad car companies will fight you over repairs. And lowering it they can say due to the change of normal angle of the drive shafts caused x to fail ( in this case the driveshaft, Transfer case since it 4wd and rear differential) I doubt they would fail but you never know and would rather them pay to fix it then me. You could also see if there is stiffer stock shocks (won't solve it but may help prob not since everyone lifts our trucks it won't be easy)