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Reviving a long dead thread with some questions.
Is there a rating for refrigerator comressor motors that tell their efficiency ?
I know that you can look at the EPA Energy Star Kwh used and divide by the cubic footage, but I would think this does not really show the efficiency of the compressor itself, since some refigerators are insulated differently.
Is it possible to safely remove a compressor motor and place it somewhere besides UNDER the fridge ??
I'd like to take a medium size refigerator and lay it on its' back to make a chest freezer.
Can you do this with refrigerant in the unit and shut it off and reconnect it again ?
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I got the impression that adding insulation to the OUTSIDE of a refrigerator is not a good idea because of the coils in the walls of the refigerator.
Can you please remind me of what these coils in the walls do ? ( And why adding insulation to the outside is not good )
Would it work better to get a 12 cu ft refrigerator and add cork or coroplast layers on the INSIDE of the refigerator ?
You could also use layers of freezer packs in the walls of the coroplast.
This would of course create a smaller useable space inside. I'm aware of that. I'm just wondering how this all works.
I have read thar a frig that is packed full of food is more efficient than one that is empty, but I also recall getting the impression that a freezer that needs to be deiced because it is completely packed with ice is less efficient.
I'm confused.
I haven't read through all the threads again.
What was the Kwh / Cu ft record that any of you got on your frig mods ?
Lastly, I'd like to ask why chest freezers are not built to be used horizontally.
What I mean by that, is that unlike freezers at the grocery store, commercial chest freezers are square - not a rectangle.
This means you have to stack food, rather than lay it out horizontally.
I'd like to build a super cheap DIY solar refigerator / freezer.
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