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Old 02-03-2022, 01:23 AM   #47 (permalink)
serialk11r
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Join Date: Jan 2012
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spyder2 - '00 Toyota MR2 Spyder
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Thought I would also mention my further ECU tuning exploration. I was hoping the idle would be a little better and fuel consumption would drop if I tweaked the VVT settings, but I changed what I think should retard the intake cam opening by 10 degrees and I can't really see much of a difference. What I notice is that perhaps surprisingly (or maybe this is normal for engines with a lot of cylinders, since they can tolerate misfiring and still run smoothly) the idle is perfectly fine with cold temperature and it'll idle at my requested 672rpm (down from 752) with target AFR of 1, but the fuel consumption will be very high until the coolant is hot regardless of what I do to the VVT.

Right now at high altitude and with thinner oil, I am seeing a 0.38 gph idle when the engine is fully warmed up, but at 180F it's more like 0.45, and at 150F it's 0.5. I guess the fuel just isn't mixing and combusting if the engine isn't hot. I think if I switch to 10W-40 as planned, the lowest it'll go to is maybe 0.39gph at sea level on a hot day where the cooling system is running over 200F. That's 0.09gph/L displacement, which is actually really impressive for a port injected engine with a lopey idle. I recall my Scion FR-S using 0.17gph for a 2L engine, but that had port + direct injection and dual VVT.

I added some more EGR and ignition timing advance but I don't think it's helping. The intake vacuum is not that high because there's so much cam overlap. Friction remains the primary enemy, and thinner oil and taller tires are the only things that will help.

On another note, I did get these beauties. They feel pretty light, but the springs on the floating mount feel really stiff as I can't get the rotor to move relative to the hat at all. I do need to remove the bolt to get a feel of how much force they actually apply, but the metal looks fairly thick so that's not great. Unfortunately, a full brake job involves buying new torque to yield bolts for the calipers while the original brakes still have a lot of life, so I am probably going to avoid installing these until I burn the originals up at a track day some day.
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