I downloaded the FSM because it is likable, but I hadn't even found the right section when I thought there must be a write-up somewhere, although it is ridiculous how long it took me to find. I found a sticky for the 1996-2000, but needed to go through dozens and dozens of forum posts to find one for the 2002. It looks great, but the steps aren't numbered, so I worry about keeping track of where I am!
Head Gasket + Timing Belt DIY It says to buy replacement nuts and studs for the intake and exhaust manifolds, but I became frustrated trying to find them on-line, and I hate to pay $10 to ship a couple fasteners. It says to buy a wingnut socket.
Eric mentioned that. He showed a socket he found with a slot sawed in it. Hillman sells one for $10 on Amazon. There were significantly cheaper Chinese ones.
It says it originates in the US.
I just hope there isn't a space issue. This should fit in a 1/4" socket, but looks 2.5" long, on top of the 1/4" socket.
An actual wing nut socket would be a fraction as deep.
Everyone said to order OEM and only OEM, but I ordered Fel Pro.
Someone mentioned that the dealership has a kit, but at the time it was $233, and the individual components totaled $135.
Here is the list (and comments):
Headgasket replacement parts list.
Majestic will ship the kit for $236.69, but all of the components for $163.22.
At least the post says it is all of the components. I opened every relevant Google result until they stopped looking relevant and none of them said what was included in the kit.
The post with the parts list suggests buying a valve spring compressor so you can replace all of the seals that you are buying. I think this is the type they said, but they mentioned someone's video, which I haven't found yet:
ATP Solid Valve Spring Compressor C Clamp Service Kit
They mention
Invisible Glove. Amazon sells it for $11. I couldn't find it elsewhere cheaper, not with shipping. It is supposed to help keep your hands clean.
Disposable gloves are cheap, but rip easily. I haven't ripped mechanic's gloves, but they soak.
Shouty recommended wearing disposable under mechanic's gloves--if they fit, but you might need to take your arthritis medication.
From the instruction thread: It is easier to remove the intake manifold if you remove the brackets attached to it first. Someone also suggested securing the intake with a bungee cord.
You may want to remove the engine mount after removing the intake.
Quote:
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You could have saved some time and left the exhaust manifold hooked up to the downpipe... it really wouldnt get in the way too much when removing the head and it would save you a few minutes playing with the spring bolts.. Also.. I've recently discovered you don't need to remove the intake manifold either... just remove the bolts off the brackets behind and the knock sensor, make sure everything is disconnected off the IM and remove the head. It takes two people to remove the head...
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Once again I am doomed!
I believe that Eric disconnected the exhaust, but just pushed it back, still on the studs.
"solution for TDC and top cover - pull the top cover (carefully to not to damage the TDC wires) from the front and lift towards the rear, move it over the engine mounts studs and put your hand in there to disconnect the TDC."
Not Top Dead Center?
He said he needed a crow's foot.
I wonder if a wrench extender would work? Eric reviewed one here:
This guy tested
Tight Wrench Amateur ($32),
Tight Wrench Professional ($70),
Mac ($130), and Snap-on:
The cheap one broke with 30 foot-pounds, the second broke around 110, and the expensive ones did about twice that.
I absolutely needed to cut this short 2 hours ago.