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You can probably snug the bed up yourself. Haven't worked on any newer pickups, was pretty straight forward on older models. Maybe Ford has had a better idea (special tool required) in the mean time. If you've got doubt's, ask for free advice at a body shop.
300 miles per mo or 3,600 miles per year.
10 mpg means 360 gallons @ $4 per = $1,440 per year in fuel
12 mpg means 300 gallons @ $4 per = $1,200 per year in fuel
15 mpg means 240 gallons @ $4 per = $960 per year in fuel
20 mpg means 180 gallons @ $4 per = $720 per year in fuel
Definitely best to concentrate on low hanging (least expensive) fruit
I agree with red, you want to find out exactly what's keeping the check engine light on. Various auto parts will scan the codes and turn the light off for you for free. Just be aware the codes don't tell you which part is broken, they only tell you which readings are out of spec. The codes are just a starting point to help decide what to test first.
If you can live without 4 wheel drive, I'd pull the front differential and front drive axles if possible (was doable on older Fords, should still be unless something has drastically changed). Once that's done, the combined 5,000 lb tractor and trailer really isn't all that much so put taller gears in the rear if you can get away with it. What's the current gear ratio anyway?
If you must have 4 wheel drive, badly mismatched front and rear gear ratios are not a good idea - lots of excess wear and tear!
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