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Originally Posted by Xringer
I don't ever recall seeing a failed AC in a car that still had much refrigerant left in it..
Anyways, my post isn't asking how to better run or repair a car AC..
It's about the desirability of dumping your AC for better MPG..
Pretend it was a regular dealer option at a used car lot.
They both cost about the same..
Pick one:
A. 10,000 BTU AC system installed w/25 MPG unlimited miles.
(Until you turn on the AC, then it's 23.5 MPG).
B. Plug-In Mild-Hybrid system installed w/30 to 38 MPG for trips less than 20 miles.
(After 20 miles, it's back to 25 MPG).
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A wire could break, the compressor can burn out, a valve can stick, or an electronics board can fry just to name a few. All of which leave a broken A/C with all the charge still in it.
Even if you were removing the system altogether, you still need to recover the refrigerant in order to comply with EPA laws. It is illegal to intentionally "vent" refrigerant to the atmosphere, especially if it's an older A/C that uses R-22.
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I think mine is still running. They say it's good to turn it one for a few miles at least once a month.
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Not that myth again! The capacitor depolarization problem that led to that myth is not an issue today.
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That model is only rated for a max charge of 300g.... I drive a midsize classed car (2000 Jetta), which is spec'd for a charge of 700g + 50g
Danfoss doesn't make a 750g model, but it does make a 800g max model... Which, under max load, draws 660W @24VDC
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The compressor does not determine the maximum charge in the system. The charge specification is if the compressor casing is used as the only accumulator. It can easily be a lot higher if there is a separate accumulator.