[Xist]

I don't think I linked this!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wQq2vHSYYrc

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable and remove the battery.
2. Use the trim tool and a little WD-40 to remove the plastic clips, then the splash shield.
3. Drop the exhaust; you may need to use heat.
4. Remove the 14 millimeter fastener holding the catalytic converter to the engine block behind the o2 sensor.
5. Unclip the o2 sensor wires.
6. Undo the 3 12 millimeter fasteners on the back of the engine block to free up the lower part of the plastic intake manifold.
7. Loosen the 19 millimeter coolant jacket plug just above the oil filter.
8. Remove the radiator plug.
9. Remove the oil filter.
10. Remove the 12 millimeter fasteners that hold the lower part of the intake manifold to the cylinder head and loosen the 10 millimeter fasteners holding the brackets.
11. Remove the brackets
12. Disconnect the oil pressure switch.
13. Apply the parking brake, remove the hubcap from the front driver’s side wheel of if it has an alloy rim and a centercap, remove the wheel, pop out the center cap, and reinstall the wheel with two lug nuts.
14. With a 36mm socket, a breaker bar, and a length of pipe over the handle, remove the axle nut.
15. Remove the lug nuts and the wheel, spin the axle nut back on until it is flush, and hit it with a sledgehammer until the hub comes loose.
16. Remove the 10- and 12mm bolts holding the brake line and the 2 12mm bolts holding the brake caliper
17. Pry off the brake caliper and use a bungee cord to hold the brake caliper out of the way.
18. Remove the pinch bolts, 19mm nuts, and 21mm bolts.
19. Remove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint, then the nut, and knock the hub loose with a sledgehammer.
20. Slide a drain pan under the transmission, slip a pry bar between the axle and the transmission and hit the handle with the palm of your hand, and pop it out, rotating the axle as necessary.
21. Cut the clamp off the inner boot, remove the inner boot, and remove the axle.
22. Clean up the grease, especially on the brake lines.
23. Remove the bolt from the control arm.
24. Loosen the two fasteners for the tensioner for the alternator \ AC belt and the wing nut in the front; there is a special socket for that
25. Unplug the crank sensor, cam sensor, and the knock sensor.
26. Loosen the 19 millimeter crank bolt
27. Loosen the drain plug on the back of the block and drain it there.
28. Take off the radiator cap.
29. Tighten the coolant jacket plug to 58 pound-feet.
30. Remove the 8mm and 10mm fasteners holding the air box assembly.
31. Remove the power steering pump, the alternator, ac belt, and the upper and lower radiator hoses.
32. Remove the last of the lower intake manifold bolts now.
33. Remove the air temperature sensor.
34. Loosen the intake manifold from the cylinder head and push it back against the firewall; don’t disconnect anything on the throttle body.
35. Move aside both o2 sensors.
36. Remove the coolant temperature sensor.
37. Remove ten-millimeter fasteners to remove two brackets blocking the short radiator hose.
38. Remove the radiator hoses, using WD-40 if necessary.
39. Remove the thermostat; replace with new genuine honda.
40. Remove and label fasteners on top of the valve cover.
41. Remove the dipstick.
42. Disconnect the alternator; there is a 10 millimeter nut on the back.
43. Remove the bracket.
44. Disconnect everything else on the wiring harness.
45. Move the wiring harness out of the way.
46. Remove the last 12 millimeters intake manifold fasteners, removing a clip in the way.
47. Push the intake manifold and everything connected to it back off the studs.
48. Loosen the power steering reservoir, remove the 12 millimeter fasteners and wingnuts holding the pump.
49. Remove the 10 millimeters fasteners on the bracket holding the power steering lines; remove the bracket, and move the pump out of the way.
50. Remove the three 14-millimeter fasteners holding the power steering bracket; remove the power steering bracket.
51. Remove the 12-millimeter fastener and wingnut on the alternator, then the alternator belt.
52. Remove the 12-millimeter fasteners holding the exhaust manifold\catalytic converter; remove the exhaust manifold\catalytic converter
53. Take the opportunity to do a little house cleaning; spray all visible grease and blow it with compressed air.
54. Remove the valve cover starting with the coil packs.
55. Remove the spark plugs, replace with new if necessary.
56. Remove the three fasteners the timing belt cover; remove the timing belt cover.
57. Rotate the 19mm crank pulley bolt counterclockwise until the timing marks line up.
58. Remove the crank pulley and the lower timing cover--there are 4 fasteners.
59. Don't lose that keyway; if you lose that your life is going to suck.
60. Put a six millimeter allen wrench in the tensioner to get just enough slack to remove the belt, but if you're replacing it, i say just cut it be done you can set the timing when you put it all back together.
61. Reinstall or replace the oil filter.
62. Remove the cylinder head (valve cover?).
63. Loosen the 14-millimeter fasteners with a breaker bar starting at the outside and spiraling inward, remove, set aside, and clean if necessary.
64. Carefully remove the cylinder head and set it somewhere safe.
65. Remove the intake studs with two nuts and a socket wrench. Remove the dowel pins, intake and exhaust gaskets and clean the cylinders, intake, and exhaust mating surfaces with brake cleaner and a Scotchbright pad.
66. Inspect for gouges and fill in as necessary. He used a tiny amount of Loctite hy 4070 and lightly sanded with 120-grit in a hand sander and a light touch when it was dry.
67. Clean out this egr passage with throttle plate cleaner and a flathead screwdriver.
68. Clean the radiator hose connections inside and out with a Scotchbright pad.
69. Vacuum all that debris.
70. Clean the bore on the tube with the o-ring that goes across the back of the engine block to the back of the water pump with a Scotchbright pad and put silicone paste on the o-ring.
71. Reinstall the intake stud snugly.
72. Before i put the head gasket on and the cylinder head i'm going to go in here and put that silicone paste around the outside of this o-ring just because it's accessible now.
73. It can be a little confusing figuring out which way the head gasket gets installed sometimes.
74. They're marked with an up this one is not that i can see but looking at the configuration on the engine block there really is only one way for this to go on and i believe it to be just like this.
75. Spray a little WD-40 around the tops of the pistons and the piston rings to help lubricate things on first startup.
76. Reinstall the dowel pins in the front and drop the new head gasket over it.
77. Thread the studs through the intake manifold and install the intake gasket.
78. Ensure no lines or wires have gotten in the way of the cylinder head.
79. Line up the studs and carefully lower the cylinder head back in place.reinstall the cylinder head bolts now.
80. These are all nice and clean so i don't feel the need to clean them.release a drop of regular motor oil in each cylinder bolt hole, a little bit where the washer goes, and a little to the bolt threads.
81. Torque the head bolts down to 14-pound feet according to the diagram.
82. Tighten them down to 36-pound feet in order and then 49-pound feet in order.
83. Notice how those middle ones got looser i always go back and redo it after for this very reason.
84. Now to 36 and now for the final torque of 49 foot-pounds [music].
85. Installation is reverse of removal, but the torque spec for the intake manifold is 17 ft-lbs, 23 ft-lbs on the exhaust manifold, and 7.2 ft-lbs on the valve cover--follow the diagram.
86. I'm going to put it somewhere between 15 and 20 foot-pounds and that's just a guess on my part.
87. When you reinstall the timing belt make sure that both the crank and cam pulleys are in time before you commit to that and that auto tensioner works.
88. Carefully slide the axle into the transmission, tapping on the outside with a rubber mallet if it doesn’t go in all of the way.
89. Turn your hub until the splines line up with the axle and wiggle the hub until a couple threads stick through; installation is reverse of removal.
90. Dent the axle nut with a hammer and screwdriver.
91. Tighten the caliper bolts to 25 ft-lbs lugnuts to 80 ft-lbs, and the axle nut to 134 ft-lbs.
92. Ensure the radiator and oil pan are closed; fill the engine with oil and the radiator with coolant.
93. If necessary, clean your battery terminals, consider applying multi-purpose grease to the terminals.
94. Bleed the air out of the cooling system and drive it around for a while.
95. You might see smoke coming off the engine for a little bit, but if it lasts past a day or 50-100 miles of driving then look into it further, but you definitely want to go around and check for any leaks or any issues after doing this amount of work to an engine.