I sold this car over a year ago, so the car's current owner is welcome to chime in, too.
However, just a few thoughts in response to your post...
Quote:
Originally Posted by andrew.moore@freenet.de
VERY impressive!!! 50 MPG translates to European 4.7 liters/100 km, which is absolutely astounding for a car with a 5.7 liter gasoline engine!
|
50 MPG was a "best ever" road trip tank. On average, it was more like 42-43 MPG in warm weather in mixed driving. Still significantly more than twice the EPA rating, though, and not far from Prius mileage!
Quote:
Originally Posted by andrew.moore@freenet.de
Incidentally, if you used mainly already-existing second-hand parts (i.e. not creating much impact through manufacturing of parts), you have easily beaten the scenario of replacing your car with a new EV (of any description). I have the calculations and research literature references in my book for Oxford University Press.
|
Yes, most of the modifications were either junkyard parts or off-the-shelf factory replacement parts from other platforms. I even bought used tires most of the time, because they have lower rolling resistance and we typically didn't drive this car that much (so they'd be more likely to rot out than wear out).
What's your book? It sounds like I'd be very interested to read it. This has been my thought for many years, also--the idea that keeping an older car running and modifying it for increased efficiency is more ecologically sound overall than buying a new EV. It's also
significantly less expensive.
My daily driver, and our "family car", is a 2000 Chevy Metro. I paid (a very small amount of) cash for it in 2010 when it had 43,000 miles. Thirteen years later, it now has 305,000 miles, still has the original engine, has never needed any major repairs, and still averages over 80 MPG in warm weather. I can't imagine
any other family vehicle (including EVs) that would have had a lower environmental impact over 13 years of driving than this one. And, I can't imagine any other vehicle that would have been less expensive to operate during that same time frame, either.
Quote:
Originally Posted by andrew.moore@freenet.de
I'm currently working on reducing consumption of a rarely-used Volvo 245 (wagon) 1979 with 2.1 liter gasoline carburetor engine. Plan for this year: fit injection, swap 4 speed man. transmission for 5 speed man; underbody air-flow panels; tailgate air-flow prolonger... what would you say is the priority? Possibly something else I haven't mentioned. Thanks, and all the best, Andrew
|
Driving technique is always going to be the most important factor, period. The three most important concepts that I tell people who ask about hypermiling are:
- Slow down;
- Minimize your use of the brake pedal; and
- Utilize "pulse and glide" (P&G) with "engine-off coasting" (EOC).
Having done it 100% of the time, for over eight years and over 200,000 miles, in three different vehicles, I can confidently say that consistent and correctly implemented P&G with EOC is the single most impactful thing that one can do, with a gasoline-powered vehicle, to significantly reduce fuel consumption.
Both our Metro and this Caprice wagon had been significantly modified before we started using P&G with EOC. Both had aerodynamic treatment (Kammback, grille block, smooth wheel covers, rear wheel skirts, front air dam), improved gearing, LRR tires, engine tuning, and instrumentation (in other words, all of the "standard" modifications suggested on this site). However, when we started using P&G with EOC, the Metro
instantly went from averages in the mid-60s to averages in the upper 80s, and the Caprice
instantly went from averages in the upper 20s to averages in the mid-40s.
That's about a 40% increase in efficiency with the Metro, and about a 60% increase with the Caprice.
And, that's why I say what I do about driving technique.
With that said, these are the modifications I would prioritize with your particular vehicle. I'd usually encourage someone to start with aerodynamics, but that's usually assuming a fuel injected engine. In your case, switching to EFI might be just as significant as aero mods. At any rate, those are the two things I'd focus on first. EFI also allows for instrumentation (i.e., an MPG gauge)--another must. Finally, LRR tires can make a noticeable impact. Living in Europe, this will be simpler for you, since European tires have a label that shows their rolling resistance rating relative to other similar tires (I
so wish we had this in the US!).
I've gotten to the point where I'm ambivalent about gearing. If you commit to P&G with EOC, it really doesn't matter. However, if you don't intend to use that technique, and drive at steady speeds on the highway with the engine on...you want the lowest top gear you can get. It still won't be anywhere near as efficient as P&G with EOC, though (have I made my point yet?
)
I hope this is helpful. And, please let me know about your book!
-Funkhoss