I set up the frame for my portable garage so I can get the stuff out of the shed and the greenhouse.
Of course, Mom threw a tantrum.
I need my jack and stands to move Chorizo, but they are under this car, so I needed to find my razors, finish scraping the engine block, and reassemble the car enough to drop the jack and get it off the stands, so I needed to figure out where I left off:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xist
- They're marked with an up this one is not that i can see but looking at the configuration on the engine block there really is only one way for this to go on and i believe it to be just like this.
- Spray a little WD-40 around the tops of the pistons and the piston rings to help lubricate things on first startup.
- Reinstall the dowel pins in the front and drop the new head gasket over it.
- Thread the studs through the intake manifold and install the intake gasket.
- Ensure no lines or wires have gotten in the way of the cylinder head.
- Line up the studs and carefully lower the cylinder head back in place.reinstall the cylinder head bolts now.
- These are all nice and clean so i don't feel the need to clean them.release a drop of regular motor oil in each cylinder bolt hole, a little bit where the washer goes, and a little to the bolt threads.
- Torque the head bolts down to 14-pound feet according to the diagram.
- Tighten them down to 36-pound feet in order and then 49-pound feet in order.
- Notice how those middle ones got looser i always go back and redo it after for this very reason.
- Now to 36 and now for the final torque of 49 foot-pounds [music].
- Installation is reverse of removal, but the torque spec for the intake manifold is 17 ft-lbs, 23 ft-lbs on the exhaust manifold, and 7.2 ft-lbs on the valve cover--follow the diagram.
- I'm going to put it somewhere between 15 and 20 foot-pounds and that's just a guess on my part.
- When you reinstall the timing belt make sure that both the crank and cam pulleys are in time before you commit to that and that auto tensioner works.
- Carefully slide the axle into the transmission, tapping on the outside with a rubber mallet if it doesn’t go in all of the way.
- Turn your hub until the splines line up with the axle and wiggle the hub until a couple threads stick through; installation is reverse of removal.
- Dent the axle nut with a hammer and screwdriver.
- Tighten the caliper bolts to 25 ft-lbs lugnuts to 80 ft-lbs, and the axle nut to 134 ft-lbs.
- Ensure the radiator and oil pan are closed; fill the engine with oil and the radiator with coolant.
- If necessary, clean your battery terminals, consider applying multi-purpose grease to the terminals.
- Bleed the air out of the cooling system and drive it around for a while.
- You might see smoke coming off the engine for a little bit, but if it lasts past a day or 50-100 miles of driving then look into it further, but you definitely want to go around and check for any leaks or any issues after doing this amount of work to an engine.
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I can totally find the dowel pins easily, right?
Right?!
