Quote:
Originally Posted by freebeard
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I think That's the 1st I mentioned it freebeard.
I didn't want to:
The product is designed to be acceptable to the broader public:
It looks pretty, like oil, so more likely to be universally accepted by people who have done zero to 2 minutes of research on the subject.
At a guess it was made with a very little, very fine Boric Oxide/acid and a surfactant to keep it in suspension and invisible.
It seems to rely on the water that ends up in the sump, given how long it takes to kick in.
That's all well and good if your goal is to increase your bank balance by selling lots of product to a vast pool of ignoramuses.
But if you want to properly treat the metal surfaces of an engine and quickly, you want both the solute (Boric Oxide) and solvent (HOT Water) in a 'clinically effective dosage' in the engine.
As is obvious; the water will thin the oil, so you want way more oil (full) than water/solvent and you want to take it easy until the solvent has mostly boiled off.
ie: "Puck the Fretty product and 'pretty' price! I want this to work fast and fully and at reasonable cost." was my thinking.
Plus:
If you use a lot of solvent you don't have to go to the trouble of milling the crap out of the powder for days.
The 'particles' of the wanted Boric Acid don't get much smaller than what they are in solution...
I did use a mortar and pestle and/or a coffee grinder on the (frozen=brittle? = more easily ground) powder however.
That also avoids all the Boric Oxide, which you don't really want, from floating about (or not)
waiting for water to 'appear' to become the solution you do want.
(You want the acid to form the hard, inert oxide-ish barrier on the metal surface, (similar to what happens to aluminum in air), not float about)
I over saturated my cup full of Hot water and powder.
ie: Some powder undissolved.
This extra was to dissolve in the water already in, or soon to be in the oil.
I figured the filter would catch it, from whence it would dissolve as water came along...
NB
that
for very worn/old engines where oil pressure is already on the lower limit due to over large bearing clearances due to wear, you'd want to add the mixture bit by bit so as to avoid thinning the oil too much and going below the minimum reqd oil pressure before the solvent has boiled off.
Alternately the engine oil might be replaced with a thicker grade of engine oil before adding the BA, then an oil change after the layers have fully formed, removing 2 microns of 'clearance' wear from the bearings, pistons, etc.
I never tried that however.
In Short:
Motorsilk just looks pretty and costs much, once you've done the research.
I hope that all makes logical sense to you and the 'Popcorners'
