Quote:
Originally Posted by vteco
@aerohead it is my daily driver (though I don't drive every day).
No, highway mileage is a small proportion. Rural hilly to mountainous curvy driving is its main fare at 35-45 mph generally with occasional half hour 50-55 mph trips. Very few stop lights or stop signs, on the positive side. It's not city driving in any sense.
That doesn't mean I don't want to optimize it anyway for a rare longer highway trip. And a better shape can't hurt mileage at slower speeds. I'll treat it as fun and educational.
Instrumentation/driving will be important to best mpg in my circumstance. Energy planning. But I'm also interested in what can be done by possibly working with tuning and transmission.
I think it's an interesting circumstance to explore.
|
1) If the EFI, electronic spark control, and all the sensors are operating to OEM specs, I'm unsure if you'd find any 'fruit' there.
2) A full-synthetic engine oil, transmission, and rear axle lube package is 'where GM went to', get to today's efficiencies. You just want to respect any known limitations if you transition to different liquids.
3) Electric, Messier water pump, and electric radiator cooling fan? The Caprice, Roadmaster, DeVille 350 small-blocks had some of this.
4) The transmission itself, I don't know. GMC/Chevrolet/Ford are up to 10-speeds today. You should have a 4-Speed, electric lock-up overdrive. Best mpg for the engine is at the engine's maximum-rated torque RPM. A good tachometer would help inform 'where you are'.
5) Knowing what the engine /gearing is doing right now, might help decide of a different ring-and pinion, or Gear Vendors electric overdrive could be in the mix.
6) I'm running 44-psi, Hankook, H speed-rated tires instead of LT tires. I watch my loads. Maybe not an option for you.
7) If you get the aero right, any weight gains will be more than cancelled.
If you don't tow a bunch, 'passenger car' mirrors are an immediate drag reduction. Lower drag means less cooling, so some radiator blocking is easily accommodated.