[Piotrsko]

Let me count the ways: 1st 12vdc must be run through two systems to make it 120 60cycle. One is a chopper that makes some sort of variable voltage. Transformers dont run on dc very well. Second is some sort of voltage increasing device. Transformer is more efficient that the equivalent capacitive voltage doubler and that would need many stages to get to 120, but the output is still DC and needs the chopper. Down side to the transformer is that they tend to be current limited OR they get really hot. Bigger size fixes the heat, but my whole house UPS weighs 150 lbs and is good for only 60 minutes of coordinated shutdown on the F250 dual #34 batteries, and it better be running when connected (assuming I got notice of imminent failure) whole house ups only runs the stuff that's annoying to restart, a radio, one small tv. and one 2000 sq ft rated pellet stove. Ok so you have a 100kwh 165 v battery. Tis good for one leg, you could use your motor controller for the other two, might piss off the controller not using the one leg, the 120 side might balance the 240 legs if the 240 legs balance. Remember 120 is average voltage, not peak to peak which is around 165. Now your controller is a variable frequency device otherwise you get one low speed from it unless you're like me and run series DC which is voltage dependent for speed, power is dependent on current, frequency is irrelevant.

Now all this mucking about is mostly efficient, but it's making heat in the battery and silicon control circuits which you're gonna have to cool. Not my pay grade, but it's a loss.

So you figure out the speed you need the throttle set for that gives you 60 hz, but it's gonna vary a bit depending on load unless you have a compensation feedback. My controller is run by a 486, but it's slow regulation so frequency varies between 50-70hz for a given fixed throttle request. Doesn't matter in the ranger its about 2mph different and remember, I am current regulated.

Now you're going to say, my battery is going through a regulated 120v 60cycle inverter. Doesn't work like that. Well yes, thats correct. My car inverter/controller is good for 300kw, indefinitely, yours is rated lower and will need potloads of relative cooling to run at max rating. Might be pack voltage to 165/120 I dunno, don't matter. It isnt a motor controller so it may not be part of the cooling system or controlled by the main car computer. If it isn't, needs control of the coolant cycle and control of the battery to avoid destruction of your drive pack. That gets it into the house on a 16 to 12 gauge extension cord or two. What no 8 gauge cord? Oh well that limits what you can run. Maybe even get to not fry your electronics