Quote:
Originally Posted by aerohead
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1) So let's see, you poured your coffee cup of boric acid dissolved in boiling water into the Toyota, and all that 'water' boiled away ( paraphrasing your words ).
2) However, even though your crankcase, at [ 100-C ( 212-F ) couldn't support the water you added, at the boiling point of water, somehow there's still 'plenty' of it in there to take care of the BA/BO? ( paraphrasing your words ).
3) And, up in the combustion chamber, where the products of combustion are around 1,600-F ( 1,388-F above the boiling point of water ), there's enough 'RELATIVE HUMIDITY' to 'wet' your 'dry' BA?
' you cooking pasta in there also?
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IF
the temperatures in top the combustion chamber equaled the temperatures of the cylinder walls
THEN
What would happen?
[/B] Are you now saying that you are unaware of quench distances from the cylinder and
[/B]despite the links,
believe engine piston sleeves and lube run at 1600F?
OR
Do you just want any readers of this post to think so.
Sleeves usually run at around 140C
and DO NOT go above 170C
Do you need a hand opening the linked research???
Say if it's beyond you and I'll paste in the pictures for you.
I know how much you hate the pictures. (for all to see)
And yes; there is enough water/steam/vapour moisture both above and below the piston to turn any Boric Oxide back into Boric Acid.
But nice work at discombobulating any other readers.
I'm sure it works/worked on many of them.
Only 1 in 20 people has an IQ over 120 after all...
So you've more than earned your pay and no chance of being kicked out of the 'Keep X,Y and Z quiet and make people add weight to their cars around town in an effort to save fuel' club.
Congrats!!!
So again:
Have YOU tested it?
Because until then, you don't REALLY know...
and
Given an engine to test it on; would you test it OBJECTIVELY??
As you refuse even to answer this questions;
it's pretty obvious what you are actually doing here..!