For the shift resistor, you will use the Yellow w/ vilolet stripe wire in position 82 on the PCM. I believe the picture on TeamZX2 is a mirror image. You will need to be carefull because there are other wires that look similar, but none that are exactly the same. Just print out the PCM page and compare it to what you are looking at, you should be able to find the correct wire.
For the AC and PS delete, TeamZX2 to the rescuse again...
Poor mans ps and ac ps deletes - TeamZX2.com Use the belt length recomended in this article, reroute your P/S lines to circulate and you got cheap and quick way to see if it will be effective, before you tear out $1000 worth of parts. Go to the Knowledge base section and read every thread, go the Newbie section and read the What works thread. Pretty much everything under the sun has been tried on a ZX2 and recorded in these areas. I haven't read anyone say the effort with using a P/S rack converted to manual was excessive. Just don't let your grandma drive it
If the battery is shot, have the Alternator checked also, they are natoriously weak and fail often. I'm on my third. A bad Alt. can take out a good battery, and a bad battery can take out a ZX2 Alt.
Ok, here's some pics of my grill block. It's a complete grill block and I used some think Lexan I had laying around. The mudflap removal is not pictured, it was starting to snow as I was taking them off, so no pic's.
As to the HD lip. I had my heat gun out there trying to heat it up to bend, but it was not working. I managed to get three screws in before giving up. I was installing it with the round/tube part down and using the barbed edge as a flange to screw thru to attach it....is this how most are done?