Quote:
Originally Posted by jazzie604
an engine doesnt just need more heat, it needs a very specific heat range. anything you can do to get the cooling system around 200-210 and keep it there is going to help the engine run well...
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I am thinking along the same lines. I don't think you want 365 days/yr insulated engine compartment. I like the heat sink that has been suggested, and the Prius thermos bottle.
Thinking out loud here;
There's a lot of surface area on an engine, that helps during the summer. I like the idea of leaving the engine compartment alone and using an auxilliary coolant vessel as your heat sink, the same way <as i understand it> that Toyota does with the Prius. But, add a plug-in feature that places the block heater in said insulated resevior. In operation, used with a timer and extension cord to the car in the driveway, connect 110v the heater in the evening and let the timer kick it on at 3am.
I am beginnig to think about an insulated resevior that has a built in, plug-in water heater like the Katz one installed on Johnny's Metro, only larger and better insulated. Maybe you build one by starting with a dry sump oil tank <racecar part> since they already have all the fitting bungs you'd ever need. All you'd need to do is insulate and mount it, then splice into your car's heater supply line.
1-2 gallon capacity should do it, heat the water to 130F overnight, and let the engine do the rest after it's started in the morning. If you stop for an hour, your insulated resevior, containing 200 degree water, will be your heat sink, even in the coldest of climates. For summer application, you may still want to plug in overnight.
As a 'bells and whistler' upgrade, you'd want the option to valve off the resevior, in the event the car gets parked away from 110v power, and you need faster warm up. Maybe after the engine is up to operating temp, you manually open the valve(s) and put the resevior back into the loop