Quote:
Originally Posted by rmay635703
Not to throw in a tangent but on most newer cars a warm intake improves mileage.
Couple this with water and you have a winning combo.
The way I saw it done was to have a controlled water drip and shroud around the cat area or manifold and duct your intake to suck the steam and warm air in, it gives mileage benefits (which I believe we here would be looking for) without modifing anything electronic related. You do normally get a drop in performance but the mileage gain is fairly consistant as pumping losses get reduced without fooling the O2 sensor.
The main reason to use steam and not water is obvious, it isn't as dangerous if overdone, although it is possible to overheat if your motor leans out too far in the wrong weather.
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Steam is a great addition to a carburated application. It's tried and true in the old farm truck community, to keep trucks in service. (you dont work you dont eat.) Modern cars have MAP sensors, and steam...as it's a gas, it will mess with readings, causing the vehicle to hunt around spiking emmisions worse looking to satisfy its preset curves. The best bet for fuel injected cars is to inject atomised mist into the intake plenum. I personally dont like before the TB, pooling can occur if it's a passive system. If it's spraying according to engine load/throttle percentage, then it really doesnt matter the location.
I have a performace water/meth kit in my dodge neon srt-4. Works great. It comes on at 5psi and sprays a really fine mist into my intake pipe after my TB. It was also $250 dollars. I figure i only need 1/3 the pressure and 1/10 the fancy stuff to make a naturally aspiriated car benefit. I dont think a window washer pump will live a long time put to moving that much fluid at such a higher pressure. they are only designed to get a windshield wet once in a while, not held on continuous up a steep grade or towing, or unnatural lean burn etc. Find a good 40ish psi 12v pump, a relay, vacuum switches couple nozzles for testing and youre in business.