[Frank Lee]

I wouldn't ruin the cam when all's I gotsta do is pull a few lifters (or followers as the case may be) out. Besides, the valves need to be deactivated so that the flow to the working cylinders doesn't get all screwed up, not to mention crankcase pressures. Then, later on, if I want to re-activate the cyls for some reason (experiment failed? want the power back? want to switch cyls for extended life?) nothing has been wrecked; it's a simple matter of slapping the parts back in.

You misunderstood the "cover" I mentioned, for as mentioned, it goes on the CRANKSHAFT to cover the oil hole and to provide better balance. What I have in mind is to get a few junkyard rods and cut 'em off at the big end, and bolt that onto the crank. What I'm wrestling with right now is, should they be free-spinning (depends on if they'll hit the block) or indexed and solidly bolted on? I guess I can't answer that until I have it disassembled, with parts in hand.

"BUT, the problem also resides in hot/cool spots with operations vs. dummy cylinder areas. Coolant has a tough time regulating bores with no combustion and hot spots with where the action is conducted."

I don't believe you. Neither do any of the manufacturers that offer cylinder deac from the factory.

YOUR ECU screwed up because your "deactivated" cyls were still pumping air into the exhaust stream. John and I are talking about REAL deactivation -maybe ours should be called "decommissioning"- no air being pumped, no fuel being squirted, no pistons going up and down. O2 and ECU function should be "normal" then... unless the TPS being open wider throws something askew.