Quote:
Originally Posted by MetroMPG
Truth be told, the components you're omitting aren't really reliability concerns. And only minor efficiency issues, relative to the power draw of actual driving. Contactors might represent 1-2% of the ForkenSwift's total energy use.
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This was my next Idea, but now I don't really see any reason to eliminate the second contactor.
This is pretty much the same image as the one above with the contactor repositioned to the positive wire of the circuit, and is similar to the Forkenswift without the ignition switch; mine shows the ignition as being already on.
I just threw a goofy switch to prevent the contactor from turning on when the pedal is pushed, but then I wondered if there could be a bunch of problems from doing that.
With the precharge resistor always supplying the controller with SOME power now with the contactor in the off position I was wondering what would ACTUALLY happen if you pushed on the pedal with the key switch in the OFF position?
Not to be jinxing (knocks on wood), what would happen to the Forkenswift if the contactor in the top portion of the schematic connected to the positive wire failed to make a connection to allow full power to go to the controller? Say the micro switch in the pot box broke and wouldn't turn on for some reason so the contactor doesn't turn on.
a) Does the resistor supply enough power to make the vehicle creep?
b) Does the resistor act as a bottleneck, unable to supply enough power to the controller, heat up and blow a fuse?
c) Does the vehicle jerk forward for a second?
d) Does nothing happen at all?
e) Or is it a combination of things
So many things I need to learn. I think I will just go with the way MetroMPG went with the two contactors for the sake of doing it right.
Thanks everybody!
-Trevs.