Quote:
Originally Posted by Drive Stick
You know, I get upset every time I see threads like this because I have an uncle who has the monster garage, every tool under the sun, the know how (he works for the power company) access to all the junkyard parts and controllers I would need to actually build such a car (and i have a spare subaru AWD wagon I could use or a neon coupe) .. and for some reason or another my uncle doesn't have any interest in knowing me for the most part.
I too, have wanted to retrofit a car with dual drive systems such as electric motor to power the rear wheels, and I'm so close I have everything I need except for the one person on eart who CAN help me make it all happen.
Well, we can all keep dreaming - but if he ever does gain interest in me and my ideas it'll be done.
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Sounds like you got a cool uncle. You should really become his friend. Worst case you can help him with something and maybe he'll teach you something.
The problem with the aircraft throttle is the lack of a "centering" spring. In my mind that's just a necessary safety. With aircraft there isn't a reason to have the throttle revert to 0%. That is probably why a gamepad's control stick was being used in the other electric hybrid. But I see how hooking it up like cruise control might work. If the hand throttle is hooked up to the cruise control assembly, maybe the brake or clutch would cancel the input. Err, or not, I don't know.
Anyway, the hand throttle needs a potentiometer installed at the end of the stick. You wire uses a low power wiring rated in Ohms. If you use a 0-5k pot, you need wiring that does a little over 5k Ohms seems like 6.5k Ohms was about right. The wire then runs to your controller. If you had a controller to look at with a manual it might already include the specifics. And I'm not sure to the accuracy but hopefully that's gets you looking in the right direction.
I'd also like to be able to vary the regenerative braking as easy as I press on the power brake too. Removing the brakes on the driven wheels is probably out of the question whereas a motor might pull hp from generating electricity which creates "regenerative" braking I believe the power brakes generate more stopping power to the wheels. But I don't know. It's hard enough to get continuous power ratings from electric motors, manufacturers don't include rated stopping power with their factory brakes. Maybe there is a table on it somewhere.
And @evolutionmovement, why a manual controlled CVT? Couldn't you just run the engine RPM off the throttle(hold on while I explain this), the engine RPM that that the CVT maintains based on the throttle input. Eg, <50% it's in low RPM/FE range 50%-75% it's around the torque peak and above 75% it's trying to stay close to the HP peak? Maybe a little too much programming
. Anyway don't pepper thread please. Now I've gone offtopic.