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. . .:madface:
Since you shot down my anti-freeze you should use a refrigerant. . .lol just kidding.
I really did not know that about anti-freeze. I'll have to go dig through some compressed liquid tables and find a better heat transistor.
Oh, method one was to have the anti-freeze pipes travel around the incoming water pipes to heat as it enters(before the tank) technique 2 is to put the coils in the tank. One of the only times you see type one over type 2 is when there is no convenient place for a tank to do the exchanging(or not tank at all). Thats the only time I've seen it done as a flow-thru pipe.
I was not sure if you had an additional pump to make sure the water made it to the roof or not. If you did the spring could just be gauged against the pressure of the incoming water and the pump and then just shut it off at night. Since you use one pump/diaphram whatever its just as easy to install a valve on the hotside of the solar unit(as it comes into the water heater).
I think the reason most systems use anti-freeze is for the dual purpose of avoiding freezing(I live in TN and it would freeze most nights from late october to now) and also if you had a much bigger array(more sun it sounds like in your case) you might want to go with anti-freeze to avoid it getting hot enough to increase the pressure on your lines. Anti-freeze won't get near its saturated point as soon and therefore it won't get close to the point where temperature heavily influences pressure.
Kudos Dremd
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