||1998 Acura Integra LS
|Coefficient of drag:
||Background and Acquisition:
Teggy was replaced as the daily driver by the 2010 Honda Insight EX. The car is still used regularly for personal transport, work travel (extended outdoor parking), haulage of large items, and as the primary vehicle for extreme weather.
I acquired the Integra my Wife, the original owner. The quest to get the best mileage from this car sparked my interest in EcoDriving. At the time, it was her turn to pick a car, so she now drives the '06 TSX or the '10 Insight as the daily driver, depending on fuel prices.
Teggy is the perfect project car, but unfortunately she has a 4-speed automatic. As of this entry, it has over 170,000 miles on the clock and runs fairly well. The best part is the handling. Plus, the hatchback design is very useful for utility purposes and the coefficient of drag is relatively low. It has proven itself as a tough, reliable little car.
Since I got my hands on it, it has a new timing belt, (with water pump, accessory belts and idler pulley), EBH, fuel filter, plugs/wires x4 replacements, radiator, new transmission fluid cooling lines, re-manufactured rear caliper assemblies (all brake pads replaced twice), and adjustable air intake temperature sourcing. The Valve Cover Gasket seal was recently replaced (oozed oil). In March 2011, a transmission cooler line developed a high-pressure leak, which resulted in the replacement of the hose and filling it with AMSOIL fully synthetic ATF, rated for Honda Automatics. It currently seeps a bit of oil from a camshaft end cap, which seems to be minor and not of immediate concern. The passenger-side Wiper arm stripped from its cog during ice build-up (inadvertent mod -- fixed).
In need of repair: currently sidelined: stuck rear brake caliper. It leaks a bit of oil from the exhaust cam bearing (not yet significant).
*A loose throttle cable prevented full TC lockup for most of 2006 -- repaired Mar. '07.
*10 Year-Old Battery Replaced in 2010
*Manual A/C disengage with recirc on high-loads
*Should run on Premium Fuel whenever possible
The routine (occasional) commute is a 104-mile r/t journey of 95% Highway. Engine-off coasting occurs less frequently, with the aim being to extend the life of vehicle components. Lately, I drive the speed limit (when vehicles are unable to pass) or about 5-10 under the limit, in light-to-moderate traffic -- which has become more comfortable. The previous: about limit-to-5-over. SG-II feedback: TPS is used as the primary variable, in conjunction with mod feedback status of IAT and speed, etc.
2010 Honda Insight Hybrid 5-Door EX
Also in the Garage:
2006 Acura TSX Automatic
1999 Acura 3.2TL
2003 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VIII Turbo AWD (big change there)
Other Previous Vehicles:
1999 Honda Civic Si Coupe, DOHC-VTEC/B16A2
1996 Honda Civic DX Coupe 5-Speed
1990 Chevy Beretta GTZ, Quad-4, 5-Speed
1979 Ford Fairmont Coupe, 2.3L/4-Cyl, 4-speed manual (bought/sold for scrap)
1979 Jeep CJ-5 Golden Eagle, 258/AMC-Inline6, 3-speed Manual, 4x4, salvage title, offroad only
1995 Chevy Beretta V-6 Auto, Level-2 Suspension
1977 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Brougham Soft-Top Sedan 350/V-8.
Early Years: Family Cars First Driven when Learning (Asterisk = still around)...
1988 Plymouth Voyager SE V-6 (primary)
1984 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer, 2.5L/4-Cyl, 4-Speed manual (learned to drive stick on it), 4x4
1985 Chevy K20 (lifted with oversize mag wheels/tires), 4x4, 350/V-8
1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Classic RWD, 5.0/V-8, automatic-overdrive.
1993 Chevy K-2500 Silverado Long-Bed, Extended Cab, 4x4, 350/TBI/V-8, 4-speed auto/OD with 4.11 Gears
*1967 Chevy Camaro SS, L-48/350/V-8/400hp, Turbo Hydra-Matic 400 / 3-Speed Automatic, Tuxedo Black with Bolero Red RS Striping
||*Manual Torque Converter Lockup Switch with manual upshifts (TCU analyzes/produces partial, half, and full lock based on coolant temp, TPS, and RPM -- it is still a manual operation to prevent lugging and to manually shift before control unit overrides).
*Power Steering Pump belt removed
*Distributor Full Mechanical Advance
*Winter Radiator Block
*Rear Partial Undertray
*LED Brake Lights, Tails, and Turns
*Cruise Control Throttle-Limiting System (CCTLS) (limited maximum throttle in cruise -- disconnected for State Inspection -- no longer needed)
*Open-air intake to filter -- customizable for Season changes (warmer-air / "WAI")
*91+ Octane Fuel used for warm air + timing advance
*Lower Viscosity Engine Oil
*PCV Bypass Oil Catch Bottle
*ScanGuage-II Monitoring and Feedback
*Full Replacement to Synthetic Transmission Fluid
*Davis CarChip E/X OBD-II DataLogger (for experimentation and troubleshooting only)
*Seafoam Cleanse x4 (Manifold); x2 Crankcase; regularly in fuel tank.
*192-Degree Thermostat (170 = Stock)
*LRR Michelin MXV4-Plus XSE Tires
*Tire Over-Inflation to 50-60 psi in warm weather, with no damage or abnormal wear noted for over 4 years and routine rotation. Significantly reduced pressure is used for driving in Winter Precipitation, and slightly reduced in colder temps.
*OEM Engine Block Heater (with timer)
*Coolant mod: mostly water
*Underhood heat vent near windshield
*Tune-Up at 131,500 miles
*Antenna "Mod" (broke off)
*Exhaust manifold heat shield delete (for under-hood heat: intake, etc.)
*Splashguard removal x4
*Rain-X Windshield Washer Fluid (allows highway speed operation without wiper usage).
*Stock CD player wearing out -- but it works and receives the local NPR station just fine!
*EcoModder.com Window Clings x2
*Direct-Connect Power for Portable HAM Radio Operation
Update: *Passenger-Side Windshield Wiper Repaired
||* Maybe fix the driver-side mirror (packing tape works for now)
* ...Maybe the antenna
* Thinking of LED DRLs
* Kill Switch on Shifter Stalk
* Manual cooling fan control (due to sudden highway electrical demand when engaging).
Most of All...
Make it last and keep it efficient.
|Official Fuel Economy Ratings
|Actual Fuel Economy Performance
|Last 3 tanks
|View Fuel Log
Last updated: Mar 16, 2013