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Old 10-19-2023, 04:00 PM   #71 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j-c-c View Post
Not sure I completely agree with that. Are we focusing on the body squatting or the tire compressing?
The tire squat is significantly from weight transfer and the windup observed in the wrinkling/compression of the sidewall, both require movement in order to occur, and the rotation of the driven rear tire satisfies for me that "movement", regardless of when the front tire moves.

Not sure how the .400 light or rollout are pertinent here.

It should also be noted the body when seen rising due to suspension design under acceleration is pushing against tire adding tire load and compressing the tire further. The sidewall reaction/height is a useful indicator of this result.
The way drag racing lights work and rollout is important because both allow the car to store energy before the clocks are started. The car has activated it's throttle and the transmission is engaged and things like the tire squat and suspension shift happens all while the front tire is still blocking the beam and the clocks haven't started to time the run.

Technically the car could sit there for 20 seconds and still run a 10 sec 1/4 mile pass as the time displayed is based on when the car leaves the beam. They can't win a race that way because the reaction time does count in the end. The first car across the finish line wins unless it fouled somehow. You see often, the 2 times flash up on the boards and the slower time has the win light on, because they won with a quicker reaction. The thing is the way the yellow, then green works is you can anticipate the green and dump the clutch or Trans brake before the green. You want everything to already be going and the tire to just exit the beam exactly as the light turns green not after.

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Old 10-19-2023, 04:36 PM   #72 (permalink)
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Old 10-19-2023, 05:01 PM   #73 (permalink)
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I heard with her chassis red lighting was a common problem.

And still not pertinent.
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Old 10-26-2023, 12:17 PM   #74 (permalink)
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Made some explanational video on the matter. https://youtu.be/sRzaYvnW2JU
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Old 10-26-2023, 03:25 PM   #75 (permalink)
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Watched it (1.5x).

The one thing that leapt out at me was the reference to 'fuel'. I'm not sure what the correct term would be. Energy?

The picture of your wheel is hard to read. The profile across the face appears isometric, in a perspective view. Maybe it's just me.
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Old 10-27-2023, 12:20 AM   #76 (permalink)
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If we accept the premise that any loss of traction by a selected tire has no real word downside (which I strongly do not accept), it seems to me an extreme solution might be best, a very narrow tread-less hard compound high pressure slick would be the ultimate fuel saver, least rolling resistance, least frontal area, and likely the quietest (sound being wasted energy).
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Old 10-27-2023, 01:46 AM   #77 (permalink)
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Drift racing?

Above 400MPH a solid metal wheel works best, but at road-legal speeds racing slicks exhibit problems. Hydroplaning, loose gravel....
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Old 10-27-2023, 07:05 AM   #78 (permalink)
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Of course, but OP discounts repeatedly the advantages of a wider tire's benefits, so it seems, the same can be assumed for anything that decreases advantages for conditions you correctly note.
The short comings you note with slicks are at any speed, and I am not sure a "slick" needs to be designated only for racing, although that is its most common application currently. They are useful for instance on golf course turf machines.
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Old 10-27-2023, 09:42 AM   #79 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j-c-c View Post
Of course, but OP discounts repeatedly the advantages of a wider tire's benefits,
Can you please tell the benefits of wider tires you are referring?



I think water performance is much more important metric than little gains that can be had in dry road.
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Old 10-27-2023, 10:45 AM   #80 (permalink)
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I am confused here with video, are we discussing more grip, or quicker lap times, because those two metrics do not always equate, and there are many other factors at play in that undefined comparison. I believe in normal driving conditions more rubber contact on the road equals more grip, everything else being equal, period.

Me personally, I favor dry grip over wet traction, when its wet and depending on how wet, I simply lower my speed to my comfort level. When its dry, I seek all the grip I can achieve/afford, thinking a reduction in stopping distance alone in mere feet can be the difference between a totaled car with injuries vs say a spilled drink. Handling is a more complicated issue.

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