Quote:
Originally Posted by ademonrower
Many thanks for those very useful pieces of advice.
Re (from funkhoss):
Aux. vacuum canister for servo brakes: great! that sounds quite simple. Where do I get one?
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Here's one example--you can probably find them other places, too:
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/63010/10002/-1#
Quote:
Originally Posted by ademonrower
Sorry, I forgot to ask: re. the kill switch, does this have different implications for carburated engines compared with retro-fit EFI systems?
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With EFI, it's pretty simple: all you need is a switch that momentarily interrupts power to the fuel injectors. Hold the switch until the engine stops running, then let go of the switch; you're then ready to bump or key-start the engine again whenever needed.
With a carburetor, it's more complicated. You can kill the engine by cutting power to the coil (and thus cutting spark; you could also do this with an EFI system, too) but every time you stop the engine this way the cylinder walls will get "washed" with unburned gasoline. This could lead to premature wear and oil dilution.
So, if you're going to do this with a carburetor, ideally you'd use an electric fuel cutoff solenoid. This is a little tricky if the carburetor in question doesn't have such a solenoid or provisions to install one.
Or, just go ahead and convert to EFI, and enjoy both a safer/simpler kill switch and a more efficient engine all around.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ademonrower
Also, sorry if this sound stupidly obvious, but with the kill switch system operated as intended (i.e. not turning the ignition off), I assume that I bump-re-start the engine after every kill. Does that do the clutch, transmission, engine any harm in the long run? I suppose I'd have to develop a refined bump-start technique, so as to mimic the relatively mild impulse that the starter motor gives...
Am I right on any of this? Thanks!
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I've been using P&G with EOC 100% of the time for over eight years and 170,000 miles on my daily driven Metro. It still has the original, un-rebuilt engine (with 305,000 miles), and the same transmission and clutch (I changed to a transmission with different gearing and preemptively replaced the clutch about the same time that I started using EOC).
The engine, clutch, and transmission all still operate flawlessly.
Of course, your mileage may vary--but that's my experience.