Advice on aero mods for truck (2001 Dodge Ram 2500)

[Frank Lee]

Yes I do. Is it possible to shift them forward any more? Even so, they don't line up with the cab very well so there will be aero disruption anyway.

Re: moving the plywood back: in further considering it, this is a different scenario than it is down at regular tonneau level (due to the close proximity to the trailing edge at the top of the cab) and I think making a full length roof is a better bet.

[wjbell]

The reason I put the boxes away from the cab was basically to center them on the bed for looks. The wood covers a little over halfway back but I think when I put it back on I will do a full 4x8 sheet. That should cover most of the bed. I have some ABS so I want to try and do something with the sides to get rid of those openings. After that, I think the underside would be a good place to look at next.

Does anyone have any suggestions for sturdy material for partial underbelly or wind deflectors?

[Backtobasics]

Originally Posted by wjbell

I think you're right. 3-4K to rebuild my trans will buy a lot of fuel!

Even new stock injectors would be a major improvement. I'm sure mine with 170K probably aren't giving the cleanest spray pattern anymore.

One of the things with the FASS systems is that they remove air bubbles in the fuel to the injector pump. Stock the fuel has air in it that makes it less efficient. I don't like having to put a draw straw in though. (new tube to suck up the fuel) I actually was working on my own air bubble separator system and it worked at removing the air. (tested with a fountain pump in water then introduced air bubbles into the water) The only problem was the container I made for it leaked. I still need to come up with a good container and I think it would work.

The Air Dog II has it's own fuel pickup, I dont think you have to drill for the draw straw any more.
An additional benefit of getting rid of the air is the injector seats themselves are much happier when air is not present from an impact standpoint.

Originally Posted by wjbell

The reason I put the boxes away from the cab was basically to center them on the bed for looks. The wood covers a little over halfway back but I think when I put it back on I will do a full 4x8 sheet. That should cover most of the bed. I have some ABS so I want to try and do something with the sides to get rid of those openings. After that, I think the underside would be a good place to look at next.

Does anyone have any suggestions for sturdy material for partial underbelly or wind deflectors?

I wonder if you had a 4x8 sheet that you started at the cab, and angled down to the tailgate. You could use a couple of small pieces of angle iron bolted to the back of the toolboxes for support, and with some quick fasteners, would be easy to remove to use the middle of the bed?

As for under body, if it is not going offroad, white clorplast could work and would match the truck, or black for stealth. I am betting there is a huge mushroom shaped area from the front bumper to the front cross member that would go a long way to smoothing out the lower air flow. Diamond tread aluminum would also work, and have enough structure to with stand an impact.

[Backtobasics]

I have long wondered how much better the back of the truck could be done. The back bumper is a small parachute, I have wanted to build some type of diverting belly pan that allows access to spare, but still directs air such that it does not catch on the bumper.

I drive a 97 Ram 2wd club cab on a daily basis (gas) so this is very intriguing to me.

[wjbell]

I wonder if you had a 4x8 sheet that you started at the cab, and angled down to the tailgate. You could use a couple of small pieces of angle iron bolted to the back of the toolboxes for support, and with some quick fasteners, would be easy to remove to use the middle of the bed?

I was thinking of that too. But I want to stay as functional as possible and don't want to block my view out the back window. I could cut a hole and put clear plastic as a window in the plywood, but I also want to keep any mods reasonable looking. I want better economy, but I want to strike a balance with looks. This is my work truck and I don't want to pull up to a customers house with a 3 foot boattail and trailer lights... no offense to anyone with a 3 foot boattail and trailer lights.

[Backtobasics]

Sheet of Lexan or plexiglass? This would allow the view through, and also could be attached by small angle iron pieces bolted to the back of the toolboxes. I picture a couple pieces, with a nut welded to the backsize that would allow a bolt to run through the plexiglass or Lexan. You could run a rod from side to side for support under the sheeting, and if it needs to come off, you zip out the bolts, move the sheeting, and slid the bolts back into the angle iron, so they don't get lost. You could even position the angle iron pieces the same width away, that your side to side supports could be bolted front to back, so they aren't in the way or get lost too...

[Backtobasics]

Out for the weekend, follow up Monday.

[Frank Lee]

Hmmm, looks like those boxes could be moved closer together without hurting anything...