Diesel glow plug switch

[Piotrsko]

Not a lot of plug in spots in a Walmart parking lot. In fact, none.

[atikovi]

Bought a Touareg TDI recently and it won't start until 15 seconds of cranking even at 60° if I let it glow automatically. Found that if I manually glow one or two times before letting it glow automatically, it will start in 2 seconds even at 30°. This is probably more a fault in the glow plug controller than anything else.

[Piotrsko]

On my TDI Golf, there is a bit of a wait for the glow plug indicator to turn off on start, notably longer for being cold but not longer than 20 seconds. I do not know if they stay on for a while afterward like in the F250. Below 20f, the 250 gets two heats before cranking. The golf is garaged, the 250 outside.

If it isn't throwing codes or warnings something else is odd, but if you blink funny on mine you get a warning light that requires a VAG or Torque scan.

I also use a fuel modifier on both

[Logic]

Originally Posted by Piotrsko

I also use a fuel modifier on both

Fuel Modifier??

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

Originally Posted by Piotrsko

I do not know if they stay on for a while afterward like in the F250.

Most likely, right after starting the engine the glowplugs are still releasing heat which had been generated when they were turned on.

[me and my metro]

I run my 6.5 GM Diesel glow plugs 1.5 times when it is below freezing with good results. The controller continues to cycle the glow plugs for the next minute or so to aid startup. My glow plugs draw 200 amps at 12 volts. So everything needs to work as designed to get this thing started. I have not added a button to this truck. The 6.5 is an indirect injected engine with glow plugs. I may add an intake heater to the mix like the early Power-stroke Fords did. This last January during a record ice storm it sat in the parking lot at work for a week without starting. Luckily I had a gasoline powered company truck to drive. I commute in a Saturn L normally and only drive my GMC Diesel 4x4 when the roads are not passible with a normal car.

[Piotrsko]

Originally Posted by cRiPpLe_rOoStEr

Most likely, right after starting the engine the glowplugs are still releasing heat which had been generated when they were turned on.

Ummmm, nope. Both the official dealer repair handbook which is a series of 4 and weighs about 10kilos and my gauging on the truck say they remain on for an unspecified time when it's cold to prevent stumble. Generally about 3 minutes before the alternator comes online. At 190 amps for assorted preheats of fuel air and cylinders, you kinda notice the dimming and brightening of the lights.

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

Quite a long time for the glowplugs to remain on. Maybe a grid heater, like it's fitted on Cummins engines, would make more sense.

[Piotrsko]

Many things would work better, but difficult to implement in this setup. Easiest would be to keep the block above 50f. Plug in the block heater, but it destroys extension cords unless they are rated for 30amps and plugged into special electrical sockets. Numerous truck fires resulted at the truck end because that plug is only rated for 20 amps and gets hot during use. Best I have come up with is to beat open the frozen door, start it, let it run long enough to come off glowplugs and drive in low low until I get to the main street. Some mornings it gets warm enough to have defrost by then, otherwise I need to drive with a window open. I live in a temperate climate, would hate to live in NODAK.

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

Originally Posted by Piotrsko

Plug in the block heater, but it destroys extension cords unless they are rated for 30amps and plugged into special electrical sockets.

Many people seem to neglect the amp rating while dealing with any electrical device.