EcoModding for Beginners: Getting great gas mileage.

[Volgrath]

I've been reading, I'm wondering. The main issue with the hot air intake or warm air intake is that it does lose air density. SO why can't someone put on a bigger throttle body and bigger aluminum tubing (aluminum so it can transfer heat better than plastic) so that it can get the same density as it was stock while getting the benefit of it being warm.

[SVOboy]

Well, the benefit of it being warm is that it is less dense, so that would cancel much of the benefit.

[Volgrath]

oky doky, thanks for the info!

[geraldokla]

Thanks for the mix of ideas. I like the way you give several options in each category as sometimes one idea in a category is not an option. Here in San Antonio, bicycles are just now being embraced by a small part of the population as a means to commute. Most drivers here just see bikes as a new "target". Most drivers here who run over bicyclists are not charged with a crime unless they are drunk. I sold my 96 Del Sol S Automatic and bought the same model with a 5-speed and increased my gas mileage from 32mpg mixed to 35mpg mixed with no mods.

[CrownVicMan]

I think that all of the people who discredit mods which increase horsepower are kind of missing the point. I changed my exhaust over to a stock style dual exhaust layout on my 95 Crown Vic, which was something like a 15 hp gain over single, and my average mpg went up by about 3. In my experience, if you have more power on tap but you drive exactly the same as before then you WILL increase mpg.

Also, I know how most people feel about doing so but I had a 1981 Chev Malibu and I cut out the catalytic converter (which wasn't plugged!) and I got an increase of about 4 mpg, not to mention how much peppier the car felt.

[thomason2wheels]

Originally Posted by aerohead

All the show cars and concept cars that get great mpg have special,low-rolling-resistance(LLR) tires.These particular tires are not in production and are not for sale,however,for the tires that are available to the general public,there is a "range" of coefficient of friction(Fr) for the tires available.------------------------------------------A 10% reduction in rolling resistance will net about 3.8% improvement in mpg,for comboned city/hwy driving.------------------------------------ Neglecting your tires,and letting the cold inflation pressure drop 25%,will cost you 1 mpg.-------------------------------- overinflating your tires 25% will net you a 1% improvement,but could destoy the tire,throw you out of control,and kill you,your passengers,and anyone else around you.------------------------------------ Tire manufacturers recommend that you never exceed the maximum pressure embossed on the tire sidewall.--------------------------.Also,it takes about 5-miles (8 km ) of continuous driving to get your tires up to their equilibrium temperature and highest economy.If your car is OBD-2,and should choose to monitor your mods with a Scan-Gauge,bear in mind,that any testing done without a 22-mile (35 km ) warm-up drive,will yield erroneous data,compared to a fully-warmed-up vehicle.In addition to the 5-miles necessary for the tires,all your lubricants will be below their equilibrium temps(and best performance) without at least 22-miles(35 km ) of warm-up.

My experience with the 98 corvette i had would tend to support your assertion. It takes an incredibly long time for transmission and engine oil to get up to temperature, even in warm weather. I used to monitor oil and tranny temps asmuch out of curiosity as anything else and was truly astounded. I would think circulating engine coolant thru heat exchangers in both manual transmissions and rearends would make measreable improvements in economy by using excess engine heat to warm the drivetrain lubricants. Any thoughts on that anyone?