02 Pontiac Sunfire Build.
 

Well I finally got around to posting this progress will probably be slow but it will be progress. Anyway here's what I'm starting with

2002 Pontiac Sunfire SE Sedan (Mileage 107,xxx
2.2 liter 4cyl Ecotec Engine
4 speed Automatic Transmission

EPA Estimate 21 City 24 Combined 30 Highway

I'll try to keep the section below in bold updated with current mods and progress

Currently Done:

105k Maintenance (plugs, belt, fluids, filters, etc.)
16" Alloy Wheels
Repainted Plastic Trim and Wiper Arms
Window Stopper Blocks Removal
Full Interior Cleaning = Weight Removal

In the Works:

Active Grille Block
OBDuino 2 (see the thread here -> OBDuino 2 Thread.)
Aero Work
Weight Reduction


Fuel Log:
http://ecomodder.com/forum/fe-graphs/graph8152.gif

Start of original post below.

So far I've done the full 105k maintenance
Plugs, serpintine belt, oil change (though it was about 2k miles back), and all the other stuff that goes with that.

The first thing I did was replace the passenger side mirror that was broken off. Sorry that was before I found ecomodder, though there was a marked increase in wind noise after replacing the side mirror.

Next was getting these new wheels and tires
http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/...psd12bf231.jpg

They are 16 inch 99 sunfire gt alloys at the moment I can't remember the tires on them so I'll post that after I check, they replaced the stock steelies I think there was a small weight savings but the tires are bigger so that offset the lighter wheels.

The next Ecomodding thing I did was pull out the window stopper blocks hey were about 3.5 lbs each so it was a savings of around 7lbs. I posted a thread about it somewhere if you want more info on that.

So here is the car now
http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/...ps52a0bfa2.jpg

I've got some plans for grille blocks coming up and some other stuff too.

Oh the tires are falken ziex ze 612 size 205/60/16

Woo, good to see another sunfire build going on. :)

Do you have a fuel log somewhere else? Are you going to start one here?

Not yet I didn't drive it much during the winter because it needed new tires pretty bad and on the 2 fill ups it had the first one I didn't know the mileage on that tank and my dad had it the next time it was filled and he cleared the mileage before I could look. I'll be putting more miles on it this summer though.

I would think removing that rear spoiler would help. I've seen alot of Sunfires that color, so you could probably find an entire trunk lid at the junk yard if you didn't want to plug the holes when you were done. Daytime Running Light delete and LED's all around would probably net you another 1mpg or so for just a few dollars. Pump your new tires up to max psi, block the grill like you were planning, synthetic fluid all around, and I'll bet you can return 40mpg with out too much trouble.

Actually it can hit 40 mpg right now I got the car from my uncle who just used it as a commuter car and he said it always was around 35-40 mpg average per tank depending on how much traffic he had during his commute. Which has me wondering what kind of potential this car really has.

I'm already running synthetic oil and my tires are at 37 psi cold. I'm deciding on some lighting options right now I've got some plans for that coming up. I probably won't do the DRL delete just because I don't want the warning lights from it but I'm still considering it at least to see what it's worth as far as FE goes. And I hate the way my car looks without the spoiler so it's going to stay for now.

Anyway I'm working on a fully adjustable grille block design for the lower opening on the bumper and I just finished getting all my measurements. I'm posting them just so I don't forget.

The total top length is about 40" and the height of the opening is about 4" the depth is 3 1/2"

Its going to be made of plexiglass or lexan whichever they have at the hardware store and for this application I don't think coroplast will work. There will also be a few motors that I've scavenged from some old rc cars as well.

I'll post some pics of the 3d rendering when I finish it later. But I think you're all going to like it.

Well my 3d software isn't working so I can't show you the design yet hopefully I'll be able to start working on it soon. Right now I'm comparing some different thicknesses of material to decide which will work best.

Well I broke out the old pencil and paper and I've settled on a design. Sorry the proportions are a bit off but it made it a bit easier for the design.

This one is the winning design

http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6734cfad.jpg

There are two sets of louvers, one on each side that will open and close with door lock actuators the two middle sections each have 3 louvers will be controlled by the motors I pulled from a rc car. The plan is that each one can be opened separately to allow for more precise air flow.

I numbered each one in the picture and I was wondering if you think opening them in a specific order will be more effective or if it won't make much difference. I figured that opening from bottom to top would be best but I don't have any data on that just a guess.

My only worry is that the rc motors won't be strong enough but if not I have another idea that will work.

Oh and better yet I may have found the material for the block in the garage. Nothing beats free! :D

40 mpg
 

Years ago,my next door neighbor and I did a construction job in Jackson Hole,Wyoming.
For the trip home we rented a Chevy,similar to the Pontiac.My neighbor drove the whole way,sometimes at extra-legal speed (80 mph)and when we topped-off the car before returning it at the Dallas Airport,we'd averaged above 38-mpg for the one-way trip.
Seems like you'll see 1st-gen Prius HWY mpg with mods,no problem.;)

Thanks aerohead! I'm hoping it could hit 50 mpg which seems to be a pretty simple goal considering it can do 40 right now but we'll see. I'm looking around at some Arduino stuff right now I'll probably make one of the projects on here the OBDuino or something I want to get the instant mileage, but I want to also have a digital temperature readout to monitor for when the grille block goes in.

Since the block will be manually activated I want to try and either use LEDs or maybe something arduino powered that will let me know which shutters are open or closed and maybe even a light that will come on at a certain temp so I'm looking at some stuff for that.

I had a 2004 Sunfire (loaded: 2.2 Ecotec, auto, power windows and mirrors, sunroof, AC) purchased new. I replaced it in 2012 when it had 477,000 kilometers (about 300,000 miles) on it. The mechanic at the garage I get my work done bought it and he is approaching 550,000 km (343,000 miles)on it and it runs as good as ever.

The only problem I ever had was the transmission (no TC lockup) at 96,000km (60,000 miles) which was replaced under warranty.

I used synthetic oil, changed every 10,000km (6,250 miles), and synthetic transmission fluid changed per user manual.

Short story: Very reliable, never let me down and as Aerohead said any trip would always get in the 35+mpg range.

Wow 300k miles is something! You have a bit higher up model though mine as manual locks, crank windows, manual mirrors but the drivers side does have a little stick so you can adjust it from the inside lol. about the only power thing I have is a radio.

I'll be following this thread. I'd like to be able to get 40mpg easily; I'd be thrilled at 50mpg.

Yeah I would think that you should be able to get 50 even easier than I can considering you have a manual. Is yours a sedan or coupe? And guessing off the name if it's blue and a sedan I'll be super jealous since blue sunfire sedans are my absolute favorite style of j body.
I wish I had a manual trans that alone could probably get me to 45 mpg.

Anyway I've got the material now and the stuff I found will work it's a nice big sheet of plexiglass. I bought some black spraypaint yesterday to paint the block and touch up some trim that needed it. Now I'm just waiting on the motor I did a bit of testing and the rc motors won't cut it but the good news is I can get a drill motor for free! I think that is an all around better choice for 2 reasons 1. the drill setup will be less delicate because it's designed for high torque and 2 it will be wayyyyyyy easier to wire.

EDIT: I found the OBDuino thread I was looking for I'm just going to drop the link here so I don't lose it

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...auge-2702.html
Thanks as always and any advice is appreciated

I got my plexiglass today so I'll be starting the grille block this week! I have my design finalized so now I just have to get going on it.

I kinda thinking of perhaps making a cheap coroplast block as well just to see if there's any difference between the active one and just a regular one. The design I'm using shouldn't let air through but there is the weight difference. In the end what will probably decide if I'll do that or not is if I puts the active one on first because I'll most likly be too lazy to take it off after that point.

The other big project I'm working on is a revamp of the OBDuino which is proving an interesting challenge but I'm enjoying it.

I just found some carbon fiber fenders. I need a new fender. Carbon fiber is light, metal is heavy. Perhaps some weight reduction is in order??? I guess I'll have to see what happens.....






To be continued

Are they real carbon fiber? Many aftermarket pieces are fake or carbon fiber on top of something else. I want to replace one of my fenders and OE-style fenders can be cheaper through other companies, but normally, they are both more expensive and heavier.

Even if they were lighter, I could not imagine a RoI, it would be far too expensive for too small a return.

The ad says they are and I know there were some CF fenders made for the sunfire. I'm not sure if I'll get them or not yet they're on Craigslist so they aren't too expensive, only $250 OBO I normally wouldn't consider it but one of my fenders is pretty messed up and the other one has a nice scratch and small ding in it. So the price wouldn't be horrible for me considering I have to fix at least the one side anyway. I am I bit concerned that it would look super tacky, you know very boy racerish.

I would imagine it would look very boy racerish, unless you paint them.

Exactly and if I'm going to go through the the extra work and money to paint them I won't end up any better than fixing what I have. So I probably won't get them but it is kind of tempting.

This was my project for today in between some other stuff I've been waiting for a good day to paint and it was hot and not too muggy we don't get that often in MI. We do get a lot of rain but I digress. Anyway PICS!!!

http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/...ps329c37da.jpg

http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/...psa145b41d.jpg

http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/...psfc5f7164.jpg

I've repainted all my trim minus the door handles since those were fine. It looks a lot better now but I didn't get before pictures to prove it but there was stuff peeling off the plastic trim and the wipers were faded to almost grey and starting to rust in spots.

The other thing I did today was start working on my drum brakes currently they're stuck on so I need to get them off so I can do the brakes. they are much less rusty now though. Sorry no pics of that either.

Looks good!

I could definitely do that on my Sunfire... after fixing the evap leak, and the leaking trans pan, and adjusting the parking brake, and the loose wiper stalk. Ah, for love of a 17 year old car. :)

How did you go about painting the wiper arms? On/off car?

If you end up trying it out I really recommend the rustoleum trim and bumper paint I used. It's really good stuff I had to paint some stuff outside so it got a ton of dust in the paint while it dried but when it dried completely the dust brushed right off and the paint still looked fine. It was super easy to make it look good it is a bit thin so do 2 light coats for the best results.

Edit: the wiper arms I left on and just used some newspaper and painters tape took about 5 minutes to tape and cover it off but way easier that taking the arms off

Ok I used a bit more than a quarter tank and got 29.1 mpg! Considering it's all city driving and very short trips for the most part I'm quite happy with it! Driving techniques were P&G, gentle acceleration, coasting to all stops and using the least throttle possible at all times to maintain speed (when I'm not doing P&G)

I found this muffler on amazon and it has some good reviews I'm considering it for my car
Amazon.com: DC Sport EX-5015 Stainless Steel Round Muffler and Slant Cut Exhaust Tip: Automotive

It's supposed to sound pretty good but my idea is that since it's smaller than my stock muffler it could make a belly pan easier and I could possibly get rid of some of the heat shielding. I'm going to look for a video on it just to actually hear it but since it's so cheap I don't have much to lose but the reduced weight and backpressure will mean a small hp gain and fuel economy improvement as well and since it's only ~$40 it should pay off pretty quickly. Finally it will be one more step in my battle against rust too lol.

Well I ended up doing a bit more painting this weekend there were a few spots I didn't think needed paint but after everything else was done look out of place. Also I'm going to be going on a trip in July so I want to wait until that's over to get the grille block installed. That way I can get a good baseline on the way to and from KY

What else did you paint up? Where are the pics?!?! :)

It's just the trim under the windows and around the rear quarter glass. Sorry no pics right now I'll try to snag some when the rain stops. The other reason I'm putting the grille block off at the moment is because I've been thinking about a few arduino options for a way to control and monitor it so I know what's closed or open plus will be able to open or close it with the push of a button. But that will require a few changes to the wiring I'll have to adjust for.

Ok here's the start of updates for this weekend first Daox here are your pics as requested :)

Before:
http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/...ps30c89c07.jpg

After:
http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/...ps29bd390c.jpg

http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/...psfadce30a.jpg

I started fixing my fender too I got the bondo done and the first coat of primer which I hope will be the only one I'll need. I'm letting it dry over night since it's too dark to paint anyway now. Hopefully I'll get it painted and cleared tomorrow. The bondo did have me nervous as I'd never used it before but it was actually really easy. It dried fully in about 45 minutes and I sanded it smooth with 80 grit first and then bit it with some 150 grit to finish it. Pretty easy overall though I still hope I'll never need to do it again lol. Here's the pics,

After sanding the bondo:
http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/...ps940a901f.jpg

Primed:
http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/...ps14c6c776.jpg

That's all for now I'm hoping to have more tomorrow.

I did forget one thing yesterday but it's not a good thing. I'm having a weird problem when my car is fully stopped it's only happened twice now but I'm a bit worried about it this is what happened though about a week ago I was in a parking lot fully stopped waiting for a spot when all of a sudden I realized the engine was really quiet so I let my foot off the brake to see if it would crawl forward because it was in drive, nothing I look at the gauges RPM is at 0 but the check engine and oil pressure lights aren't on just the DRL indicator. The radio is still on and the car never shuddered or shook the engine just died nothing electrical was interrupted the radio never flickered other than the RPM gauge dropping nothing on the cluster changed either. It it started right back up with no issues and was fine after.

Skip to yesterday afternoon I was in the car with my dad and I'm stopped at a light waiting to turn left. The blinker is on radio is on DRL indicator is on the car is in drive fully stopped. I glanced down at my gas gauge to check where it was at and notice out of the corner of my eye that the tachometer and it's at 0. The engine is dead again. There was no indication it died again no shudder no misfire. The radio is still on never interrupted blinker is on DRL is on still. But again the CEL ISN'T on the oil light ISN'T on and nothing indicated the engine died or stalled or anything.

I won't complain if the engine shuts off at red lights it's like a automatic kill switch lol. But I'm worried that it will progress to dying while I'm moving which would be pretty dicey. I'm going to swap the air filter for an extra I have in my glovebox and check the fuses and electrical connections today because I think it might be electrical. Any other thoughts are appreciated though.

I had the engine thing happen again twice yesterday as well. I was telling a friend about it and he suggested the ignition switch because he though the sunfire was also involved in the cobalt recall. Well it's not involved in the recall but I think that the ignition switch would make sense as to what the car is doing.

I watched it gauges as I rolled up the a red light yesterday and it doesn't slowly drop or bog down it just hits idle and then drops to 0 and the engine cuts off. My wheels have been straight whenever it happens so that's not an issue either.

So, it acts identically to keying off?

Pretty much. That's why I'm thinking the ignition switch is probably the culprit.

I had a 03 Malibu that at times wouldn't idle, it ended up being a idle air control valve. It was pretty random for a long time. I'd try to clean it first, some video's on youtube.

I'll look at that too. Thanks for the advice.

If it has an automatic transmission, it could be low on fluid.

Why would that cause the engine to die?

It will stall the torque converter