1995 saturn mod
 

ok. my first issue.. this car was complete crap when i got it.. its a 95 sw2 now basically a sw1.. since i had a 97 engine and 95 auto trans from my 96 sc1 that ran, car was wrecked and falling apart... anyway after i swapped to single cam got pcm. i was getting 33 mpg with a blown up dohc. now 22 mpg with sohc, i'm confused.. no check engine light...

now i've modded the intake to reroute between radiator and exhaust manifold using a 1994 saturn dohc intake.. they were changed in 95. moved IAT to where it sucks in air. keep it warm.. disconnected o2 sensor.. i was told when sensor warms up it mostly only goes by that.. . i'm also planning a mod on the fuel pressure regulator.. at no throttle theres more vacuum pressure.. i'm getting a vacuum ''check valve'' and a vacuum ''tank'' and i'm going to hook it to the regulator. to keep low psi. this is experimental so i'm not sure if it'll work right. had a thought of connecting MAP sensor in that as well. might put a 110 ohm resistor in place of IAT

not sure why i'm getting bad mpg... i ran some acetone through gas to clean out system, which was highly successful, like a new car now... no change on mpg.. also what do you do for a injector cut-off? 95 saturn has ''batch fire'' multiport.. can they all be connected to 1 switch? i was also thinking of a injector mod.. drilling 4 holes on top of the manifold for injectors. placing all on top. then having 1 disconnected. from the top is all open so in theroy it would suck in whatever like a tbi system. not sure on that. maybe lower flow injectors may work but don't want to spend a load for something that may not work..

another issue is this car the idle valve is messed up. it revv up in drive to 1700 then in neutral settles back to 800. so it disconnected until i figure that out. only thing i can think is the auto trans gear select sensor isnt lined up but i did a few tests replaced it tested it and even in 2. it still does it i figure even if its out of line 2 is all the way so sensor should hit contact

g
 

not sure why i'm getting bad mpg... i ran some acetone through gas to clean out system, which was highly successful, like a new car now... no change on mpg.. also what do you do for a injector cut-off? 95 saturn has ''batch fire'' multiport.. can they all be connected to 1 switch? i was also thinking of a injector mod.. drilling 4 holes on top of the manifold for injectors. placing all on top. then having 1 disconnected. from the top is all open so in theroy it would suck in whatever like a tbi system. not sure on that. maybe lower flow injectors may work but don't want to spend a load for something that may not work..

another issue is this car the idle valve is messed up. it revv up in drive to 1700 then in neutral settles back to 800. so it disconnected until i figure that out. only thing i can think is the auto trans gear select sensor isnt lined up but i did a few tests replaced it tested it and even in 2. it still does it i figure even if its out of line 2 is all the way so sensor should hit contact

Sounds like a vacuum leak with the idle revving issue and bad mileage. Look for loose hoses or possibly a bad gasket. You could find it by spraying Carb cleaner around suspected areas while engine is idling an see if RPM changes.

but when the idle control valve is electronically disconnected it never revvs up or acts up.. has a fuss in cold start but once it starts and warms up it sits at 900 rpm in park and 700 in drive. but the computer may have a fuss with fuel because the actual problem hasn't been found.. it isnt vacuum related i know that because it only does it when its shifted to a gear, only notice it in drive. i think reverse does it too. and only when idle control valve is electronically plugged in.. the vacuum connector at the map sensor is loose feeling but spaying wd40 on it it didn't suck it up so i guess no issue.. but still. if it was a vacuum problem it would act up regardless of transmission selection and sensors and valves

but when the idle control valve is electronically disconnected it never revvs up or acts up.. has a fuss in cold start but once it starts and warms up it sits at 900 rpm in park and 700 in drive. but the computer may have a fuss with fuel because the actual problem hasn't been found.. it isnt vacuum related i know that because it only does it when its shifted to a gear, only notice it in drive. i think reverse does it too. and only when idle control valve is electronically plugged in.. the vacuum connector at the map sensor is loose feeling but spaying wd40 on it it didn't suck it up so i guess no issue.. but still. if it was a vacuum problem it would act up regardless of transmission selection and sensors and valves

You put on the wrong transmission, you need a single cam transmission, its geared better. If you want to run it open loop, you can lean it by changing the resistance of the engine tmp sensor, you can put two in parallel and stick one on the head. You can advance the timing by putting diodes on the map sensor. Not as easy to play with as the old distributor engines.

g
 

it is single cam.. original got from a 95 sl1 for my 95 sc1 then transferred to my 96 sc1 now in my sw2 complete single cam setup.. i'll have to say this transmission is the best i've ever had.. i killed 3 transmissions and this ones always been there... it has approx. 185000 miles..
the engine costed me $50 and its the best engine i've had.. i killed 3 engines.. this one keeps on going.. . i'll definitely try that ects mod.. also where do you place the diodes? its the signal out wire right? the center wire i think. i'll have to try that too. still haven't done a cut off for injectors.

Good question , Ive forgotten, I think I have the diode on the 5v wire, so it advances more at high manifold pressure. I'll have to look. Makes the car run leaner in open loop and putt along at <1000 rpm.

The fuel cut off I tried by putting a relay in line at the injector fuse did not reset without turning the key off and back on again, so it didn't work..but might be OK for an automatic.

The 2000 and later saturn are the best engines, roller cams and better pistons..

I plugged the aux air port so it idles lower. You can then put a solenoid on a vacuum line to make it idles faster for warm up or like an anti-cut off switch on a manual trans..

g
 

what kind of diode you got? .. i figure if switch was at the actual injecters.. i did on a tbi with 2 injecters to have less injecter... whats this air port