1996 Ford F150 4.9L (300ci) I6 5MT 4x4
 

Yup, so now what do I do? LOL.

I haven't gotten a baseline on it, but I used less than 5 gallons to go 70 miles... LOL.

I've got an MPGuino, just have to get it wired up and installed in the next couple weeks.

I'm hoping for mid 30's with this truck!!! :rolleyes: Bring it on, Frank! :P

The OE thermostat is 192*, and I can't find a hotter one, so that'll have to be good.

OE tires are 235/75R15, can't really go any taller than that without going wider, too. Rims aren't OE, they're aftermarket "wagon" wheels, look to be 15"x8". Next best thing is going with big-truck tires at 100+ PSI, but that's pricey.

I'm gonna lower it some, just because I can, and I don't ever really plan on taking it anywhere that I need serious ground clearance, so I see no issue with lowering my 4x4 2 inches or so. Plus, it'll make it easier for my old self to get into.

Got an airdam planned, grille block, radiator seal, and electric fan.

EOC switch as well.

On the way home, I got "warm" air from the heater, but nothing like it should have been. It was frigid cold out, and the temp gauge never went higher than just over the "C". This will be addressed by the coolant mods.

I'm hoping this one is OBD-II, but haven't checked yet. I've heard tell that some of the F-series from 1995 to 1997 were still OBD-I, and some got OBD-II, depending on when it was on the line, and what line it came from.

Needs a new rear O2 sensor, the one that doesn't do anything special. Has an exhaust leak/hanging pipe, have to fix that. Removing the front driveshaft for now, needs a new u-joint up there.

Planning to build a controlled HAI, but that's gonna take awhile.

Bed covering is inevitable, but will also have to wait until I have more time that I don't have to chase down something for my wife, or have to take care of my Son.

Anyone have any other suggestions beyond general maintenance techniques? (I still gotta check the brakes, ball joints, tie rods, etc.)

Oh, I plan on removing the mechanical fan and replacing it with an electric one on a 210* thermo-switch.

Oh, not that it means much for FE, but I also plan on replacing all the bushings with Urethane as they wear out. I prefer the stiffer feedback of urethane bushings over rubber ones.

EDIT - When considering lowering the vehicle, I had neglected something - Body mounts.

I can replace them with thinner versions of themselves to lower the body over the frame without losing suspension travel. I don't think I can get 2" out of it, but I might be able to get a good inch.

Doing this will probably bring the bed's upper limit higher on the back of the cab, too, since the bed doesn't have rubber mounts on it. I'll either have to live with that, or possibly find a way to lower the bed on the frame as well, so the body lines match up again. (Yes, that's important.)

If not this, I'm just going to replace the body mounts with urethane and lower the suspension a little.

Wow - ambitious project vehicle. Nowhere to go but up :)

You're right on regarding the OBD-II issue.

The benefits of starting at rock-bottom, eh?

As with any good project, step by step, and all things in good time.

This one's going to take alot of beer. I wonder how eco-friendly beer is?

I'm gonna try to get my Father involved in this one, though. We'll see how well that goes over

Something worth noting:

My Grandfather drove Ford pickup trucks for the latter/end of his life, and was always ready to fix anything as cheaply as possible. One time, he got a leak in a radiator, and since he was doing body work anyway, and had mixed extra plastic, he just filled about 3/4 of the radiator with it, which prevented the fluid from leaking out anymore. With the mechanical fan still installed, his truck never overheated. I may still have that radiator somewhere on the property, if I look for it.

I had a black '95, 2wd reg cab shortbox 4.9L with a 5 speed I wanted to lower, not for FE mind you but because I wanted a lowered black truck lol. Just keep in mind that with the Ford IFS front suspension it can get ugly trying to lower them past a certain point, just like the 4x4 guys have a hard time raising them past a certain point. 2 inches is probably workable though, you might want to check some 4x4 forums to see how far you can change things around before you start having issues. The only other thing I can think of is to check the outlet horn on the airbox where the intake pipe hooks up to it. I know on the 460 powered trucks they had a restriction built into them (to keep noise down I believe) that could be hacksawed off, I never did check my truck to see if it had that though.

The Ford Lightnings of that era had a nice front air damn. I am sure there are many fiberglass knockoffs to be had that'll give you the same benefit.

Also, does it have normal lockable hubs? If not, removing the automatic hubs and going to manuals will help ya some too.

The 300 is a BEAST of a motor, but I've never heard of it talked about positively for gas consumption. Best of wishes! I'm guessing you have the Ford 8.8 in the rear. You might be able to find some 3.23 gears (assuming it's 3.55) to better use the MOUNTAIN of torque that motor has.

You might look into getting some 16x7 wheels and 235/85R16s.
Nice and narrow yet still tall.

I was just thinking about adding a plain 'ole airdam under the bumper, or even just cutting the bottom flange off the bumper and mating some more steel to it... not that I want to increase the weight of the truck any.

I'm not sure if it's got lockables or automatic, TBH. Never even thought to check. I was pretty excited to get a halfway decent truck for $575. I'll check the next time I go out there and look at it, which might not be for a few days. If it turns out they're auto hubs, I'll swap a set of manual hubs from my Father's parts truck.

The 300 never gets talked about for much, because it was a low-HP motor akin to diesels more than most other gas engines. They make more torque than HP in most configurations, and most people want a vehicle that can accelerate quickly, not one that can accelerate normally pulling 14 tons of trailer. I was specifically looking for either a 300 I6 or a diesel if I was going to get a Ford pickup.

Back in the day, the 300 I6 was used in trucks with a GVWR up to 10,000 lbs. They had the torque to do the job, even though they accelerated like a freight train. It's a shame that not many people ever did much with them, they could have been some very efficient engines, IMO. I'm going to work with mine a bit to see what I can do on gas, but ultimately, I have another old 300 spare that I'm trying to convert to a compression-ignition diesel engine.

BTW - If I were to run those 16's, those tires would be entirely too tall. That'd be adding more than an inch to the diameter. I'd have to run something like 235/60/16 to make them the OE diameter. Still not sure what I'm going to do about tires, yet.

Is there an option for the higher gears in the front axle too? I'm thinking for now that I'd like to keep the 4wd intact.

There is an option to find a gear reduction unit and install it on the end of the transfer case, one that has a 1:1 and a 2:1 ratio. It already holds 60 MPH at less than 2,000 RPM in high gear, though.

If you get 30+ mpg let me know, I'll buy you a case of beer! then when you are drunk I'll steal all your secrets lol after getting accurate data I struggle to get 18 mpg per tank

gear wise I know 3.08's are available

Sounds like it's got some super high (low) gears as it is. For the cost of regearing 2 axles, I'd leave it be.

I suggested the 235/85R16 because in fullsize truck world, it's rather short.
Course, I come from 4x4 redneck land in the sticks... (My 275/65R20s are 'small').
It works out to an almost 32" tire. I figured a F150 could easily fit those, have a narrow contact patch, and effectively lower (raise) your gearing.

The 300 is one of the single greatest motors ever devised. It's stouter than the 6.9 diesel, and if I recall, makes more HP AND TORQUE than the 6.9. Not to mention it would run on anything from plain tap water to Nyquil (Ok, that's a bit of a stretch). The EFI 300 is just a BEAST!

The thing about regearing is that I might already have other gears, and I can probably get two used gearsets (one front and one back) for about $100 if it will really get me anywhere to swap them out.

For the time, though, I think I'm going to work on the other stuff, and just see about cleaning it up and changing all the lights to LEDs.

I gotta spend some time fixing the stuff that's wrong with it, too, before I go modding it at all.

My 79 F150 with 4.9L 4 speed.
31X10.50X15
3.55 in gear ratio

I get 21 mpg in summer at 60 mph.

That were stock but have 4" lift kit.


Most important you need vacuum gauge and keep 15 psi or higher will help you improve mpg double.

Note: You can find gears at least as low as 3.08 for the 8.8 rear ends. My father in law's truck as them(97 150, MT 4.6 4wd). I've been thinking of switching them out to 3.55's or higher for towing the race car.

Where would I find the 3.08's? Also, would I be able to find the same axle ratio for the front tires?

If I can't find the same set of gears for both axles, I can't change it.

I still have the gear splitter option, though.

I don't know if they switched housings between generations but they definitely made both front and rear diffs in the 97-05? generation.(FIL's truck is a 4x4 and a 3.08). The best way to find a pair(front and rear) for cheap is to go junkyarding. On the drivers door is vehicle certification sticker, on it is an AXLE field. Here is the table you need to find a 3.08.


* 18 — 3.08, non-limited slip, F-150
* 19 — 3.55, non-limited slip, F-150, F-250
* 26 — 3.73, non-limited slip, F-150, F-250
* 27 — 3.31, non-limited slip, F-150, F-250
* 28 — 3.73, non-limited slip, F-150, F-250
* H9 — 3.55, limited slip, F-150, F-250
* B6 — 3.73, limited slip, F-150, F-250

You, sir, are my new best friend. Ok, well, not *best* friend, but a friend none-the-less.

Any idea if the carrier for the LSD gears will fit a tighter gear ratio? I'd be amazed to find an LSD rear in the yard, but if I happened across one, I'd be hard pressed to want to pay for both when they'll let me switch and swap parts at my leisure right there on the bed of a truck. (They like me... they REALLY LIKE ME.)

I'd guess the factory LSD will fit with the 3.08 but I honestly have no idea. I haven't actually opened up an 8.8 ford, I just did a bunch of research when I was(still am actually) looking to use his truck to to my miata to events.

8.8 carriers are all the same. the D44 carrier break is 3.92, but it's way easier to just swap the whole differential.

Well, I definitely have some considering to do (and some diff covers to pull).

How much will the gearing affect my speedo, if I'm going from 3.55 to 3.08? (For instance)

Lubricants
 

One very big improvement that I have not seen discussed in this thread is switching to fully synthetic lubricants in the transmission, transfer case, and both differentials. There is so much friction going on between the sum of all of those moving parts that switching to a good synthetic lubricant would make a really big difference in your fuel economy.

OH, we didn't discuss that because everyone who frequents this forum already knows that I'm probably the 2nd biggest synthetic oil monger there is. LOL.

I checked the door card on the driver's side, since I just bought some tires from a guy and was already out there anyway.

Axle - 19
Springs - K4I
Calibration code (for paint? not sure) 6-51H-R06


Guess I should go look for a Axle# 18, eh? Does anyone know the actual tooth counts of the ring and pinion gears for a 3.08, in case it's been changed from another truck? People do that, ya know... :)

Also, does anyone have the spring codes and what they're for?

I found this -
But it's under the passenger side dash, instead of the driver's side. Still OBD-II?

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...g?t=1265214747

I guess it really doesn't matter, my scanner will read it even if it's OBD-I, but it's nice to know, ya know?

I only ask because the Grand Prix I had also had the OBD-II connector, but wasn't OBD-II.

is it a 1979 or a 1997? if it's 1997 it's required to be OBDII

It's a 1996... the title says so.

And no, it's not. There are 2002 F-series trucks that still have OBD-1 on them. It depends on the weight designation of the vehicle, and I don't remember the cutoff point for it.

EDIT - Turns out that, in theory, anyway, some 1996 150's were OBD-I, and others were OBD-II. It all depends on where it was made, and what parts they were using up at the time, being the end of a generation.

Mine is an 11/95, which means it could still be OBD-I.

Regarding the axle ratio -

It turns out that my Father actually has an 80-something F150 with an axle tag that says 18. Yep, 3.08 ratios.

Caveat - They broke the rear end about 13 years ago, and he doesn't know if they actually replaced it with a 3.08 or not. I can at least get the front diff, though, since I know that's still OE.

Guess I'll have to count teeth on that rearend and hope for the best?

I've looked around and found that I should be counting 40/13 to get a 3.08 ratio.

Turns out I have a Dana44 front axle, as well. Gonna see if I can find anything lower than 3.08 for the D44.

Darn. I'm not seeing anything lower than a 3.08 without going to a completely different front axle, and as much as I'd prefer a solid axle, I'm not doing that much fab work. 3.08 it is!

Looks like I won't be able to use big-truck tires, either. The 9.00-20's are 40" tires, and that's wayyyy too big!!!

I guess I'll stick with 15's, and just get some stock steel 7.5" rims and use the stock 235/75 tire.

Unless you raid the axle off an older Cadillac Fleetwood, even 3.08s are hard to find. The aftermarket no longer supplies the 3.08 set I have.

Bigger diameter tires will hurt you mileage. Stick with the OEM size tires. Sizing tires is one thing the OEMs do well.

I have talked to hundreds of truck guys and the story is always the same.

Bigger diameter = lower MPG.

The Caddy has an 8.8 rear end?

I'm almost certain I've got the Dana 44 gearset for the 3.08's in the front, it's just down to whether or not they replaced the 8.8" rear with a 3.08. If not, there's only one more option on a truck that we have around, and that's the mountain truck, and I'd have to switch axles to keep it movable.

The other Ford we have is 2wd, and has a axle code 17, which is either 3.25 or 3.31. I think those are too far off to use against a 3.08 in 4x4 mode.

you REALLY don't want to put different ratios on the front and back, that's a recipe for a torn up drivetrain.

Obviously not. If they're within 2-3%, it won't hurt anything, though, because it's within manufacturing deviation.

Unfortunately, 3.25 is a far shot from 3.08. Of course, if I wanted to do it that way, I could compensate for the difference in axles by using different sized tires between the two axles.

how hard is it to switch it to 2wd? that would save quite a bit of weight and fuel. may also ride better with independent front suspension

It would be a matter of getting the parts and changing some hangers on the frame. Not really interested in converting it to 2WD, though.

It already is IFS, and the "ride" feel doesn't bother me. If I bought a lumber wagon, I wouldn't expect it to ride like a Cadillac. (I hate the way older soft suspension setups feel anyway. I prefer feedback.)

I checked the coolant level yesterday... it was about a quart low. :eek:

Unfortunately, I never checked it before driving the truck home, so if there's a leak somewhere, I'll have to find it and address it. As spring approaches, I'll flush the coolant with a detergent flush and install new coolant/water.

It has A/C, not sure if I'll leave it in there or not.

Wow i wasn't aware those fords had IFS on the 4WD twin I beam I'm guessing. So what are your goals to do to it to get 30 MPG then?

MOst likely lower radiator hose those F2's tend to have that problem regularlly Probably cause of the last owner just not maintainig the fluid changes and intervals

LOL - the 30MPG thing was a joke. If it ever gets there, it probably won't be on gasoline.

I'm just gonna work on it so that my profit margin while using the truck as a truck (hauling stuff for people, etc) is higher.

The better my mileage is, the more money I make in profit that doesn't have to be spent as fuel expenses.

You'll love this - I have to do the exhaust, so I'm probably going to put a turbo muffler on it. ;)

For the intake, I'm going to use my heater core idea in the filter box and see if I can make it work. I'm not too sure about the variable control circuit, or how to build it, but I'm sure someone on here can help with that.

As I do actual work on it, maybe I'll detail each part in it's own thread, and add links and a summary to this thread for reference.

Haha nice May i make a suggestion for a Flowsound 2 chamber muffler 40 buuucks with free shipping from Ebay :thumbup:

I'm interested in the intake idea Post A-B-A results will you?

You'd have a heart attack if you saw the coolant setup on the mountain truck... it's got exhaust pipe in it, and a radiator from... well... your guess is as good as mine.

haha yeah i know my buddy used to have one of those 300 I6's and that was the problem with it I had a 460Cu In work truck at my last job and it had the same problem with the lower radiator hose Lotsa work

Pumped the tires up.

FL - 23lbs
FR - 13lbs
RL - 34lbs
RR - 35lbs

Put them all to 42, sidewall max is 50, but compressor was overheating getting them up that high.

Checked front bearings, no hub movement that was discernible by hand. Front axle shaft on passenger side is REALLY loose, though, and I don't know why.

Tied exhaust back up with wire for now, going to have to change parts of the exhaust eventually, just want to get it through inspection so I can get working with it and make some money.

Picked up a hitch at the JY this weekend, but it doesn't "go to" the F150. Going to have to make some plates to mount it up, but the mounting location/method I'm going to use is stronger than flange-mount anyway, so I'll have a better "cushion zone" with respect to tongue weight and load capacity.

Fuel leak. Great. Add this into the random not-FE things I've been doing to "test" the truck lately, and I'm looking at ~5MPG average. That doesn't mean I burned that much fuel, but burned/leaked it.

The spec for the truck shows
Power: 108 kW , 145 HP @ 3,400 rpm;
Torque: 265 ft lb @ 2,000 rpm

I cruise 60 MPH at nearly my torque peak. I think longer gears are definitely going to be necessary to take advantage of the torque range of this engine for towing/hauling as well as good economy numbers, so the 3.08 rear is a must have at this point.

Driving, it just seems like I'm shifting too often to be efficient. This engine will continue to pull all the way down to 1,000 RPM in 5th gear @ WOT without bucking/shaking/lugging. Much lower than that, and you get resonant noise, but still nothing uncomfortable until you get to ~750RPM (idle).

I think once I get everything squared away and loosened up, this truck will be a great candidate for an economical towing/hauling tank. :thumbup:

If anyone has a BSFC map or a dyno sheet for a stock 4.9L from 1987-1996 (FI engine), that would be awesome!