2000 F350 4wd powerstroke. Would like hear idea/tips
 

I had this truck for 1 year and will not rid of it. It too good truck for me.

2000 F350 reg cab 4wd diesel with auto. Had 223,000 miles.

When I bought it was average 11 in city in summer and 12 HWY. After alot works on it. Now it can get 18 mpg on 50 mph long way. And 15 mpg in city during winter.

I had hard time believed those people claim 20-25 mpg out Stock or mod crewcab long bed 4wd since I only keep boost under 2 psi and coast alot. Highest was 17.


I bought scan gauge E from here few days it arrived yesterday and I hook. Was very shock to see how badly it suck fuel at idle. Warm engine it idle .97-1.15 GPH that too much. Going try fix that issue. On cold engine IT WORST It use like 3.0-4.5 GPH I couldn't believe how 1 min of idle would cost like 2-3 mpg with these condition. Hoping to fix that soon.


I learn that it had fuel cut off now if you let tran lock in 4th and off gas. Never knew it had and those miles I rack up were tap on brake pedal to unlock torque to try coast wasn't worth until you in #3.

I been look at bed cap but was wonder if bed cap is worth. Couple people told me they never increase mileage. Anyone disagree? But for couple of thought I consider Tonneau cover since they look better and able roll up.

Welcome!

Quite a bit of reading around here. With a Ford I'd start by reading Big Dave as he's posted extensively about his both here and at Powerstroke Nation. The first step is always engine and rolling efficiency (book maintenance), the second is in driver training. Alterations to the truck should be considered carefully, and this, IMO, has to do with looking at truck spec where convenience is no longer as important as economy (such as tire type since tread design makes a big difference).

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Yes when I bought it had 315/85/16 wildcat tires what was worst. Truck had no power and hard to steering.

Mileage were 13 after new tires I got mastercraft courser HT it look like michellin. 265/85/16. What a huge improve in steering and mileage went 15-16.


But now I think there issue with engine now. It currently use more fuel at idle. Everybody say it supposed use .30-.50 GPH at hot idle. Mine is .75 at hot idle.

Hoping to fix that soon.

I been read tons of thread that Big Dave made in 3 different forums. I wish my truck were manual cause I could coast alot.

Your mpg average does not seem that great. I'm averaging 18 and my torque converter is shot and my transmission fluid is burnt.

I agree with everything Slow has mentioned. If you don't need much off-road traction then avoid tires with an aggressive tread pattern. Generally, the quieter the tire, the better the MPGs. You can find these ratings at tirerack.com Inflate them to maximum pressure, although this will cause a very harsh ride and poor handling if you don't haul a load.

You might consider a grill block during winter, but be very careful. My truck has an intercooler, oil cooler, transmission cooler, AC evaporator, and radiator all up front and they would all be affected by blocking the grill. The fan in my truck is always running, so I thought about replacing it with an electric fan.

I used to average somewhere around 20mpg when my transmission was solid and I had highway tires.

You should also look at your gearing. Many trucks are geared to haul a heavy load instead of reduce RPM on the highway and this will make a huge difference.

The bed cover is a good idea, but at 50mph I don't think you will see a huge difference. I pretty much only drive my truck when I need to haul something, so the convenience of not having a cover is good. If I were commuting with no load then I would certainly get a cover.

Inflate them to maximum pressure, although this will cause a very harsh ride and poor handling if you don't haul a load.

Max sidewall pressure is unlikely to make much mpg difference. Consult posts/threads here and elsewhere by CapriRacer, a tire engineer. The trade-off in handling, braking and tire life won't justify a miniscule FE gain. Percentage pressure rise once at op temp (steady state for about an hour or more) is more important to establish best psi (which is always against actual load).

This truck got 120k on the first set of tires. And that was at factory recommended 50-psi FF and 50-psi RR. Brakes lasted just as long. Consider all this carefully, as "major" changes generally have a cost associated with them.

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Tires on F350 is http://www.mastercrafttires.com/FI_U...ourser_HTR.png

It can't be that horrible on gas. I put factory size tire there when I bought.

Trans been rebuilt due torque convertor trashed. Cost $3000 rebuilt. I order with torque convertor lower stall speed it 1400 since factory is 1600.

Reason it bad on fuel is I can't find out what trouble. I hate fork $120 each injectors. Going wait for guy get title to international where I could buy $20 each injectors only 15K miles.

When I bought they ran out of fuel:mad: That what killing injectors.

Only I can find is #3 #4 cylinders aren't work right. Hoping replace injectors fix that excess fuel consume.

When I got it was so bad. It was likely 1.30 gph and ran so poor. Change 6 injectors that actually work expect 2 original injectors in there.

Hello Milwaukee- For reference I'm driving a '02 F250 4x4 diesel auto Crew longbed ARE cap, Kelly Safari tires. Only non stock is 3/4 grill block and ScanGuage II. I've found my best mpg is just after torque converter lockup at about 43mph. If I could cruise at that speed 25mpg is easy.

After calibration the scanguage reports warm idle in neutral or park of .41gph. I limit boost depending on traffic but even so I can now get about 20mpg if not too many lights, I avoid downtown, and limit to 62mph.

Before scangauge, paper&pen mpg over the last years has been consistently 19 highway 62mph using CC on I95 south of DC. Weigh in bed up to about 1000lb has minimal highway effect. Pulling a 26ft sailboat ~2500lbs and 15-16 mpg all day.

Have you changed the HPOP oil specifically? That's supposed to help injectors. Not much fresh oil gets up there. Check youTube for method.
Ed

Yes on torque convertor lock up mine is MESS UP. It happened after I swap bad computer with junkyard computer so I suspect computer been Programmer because it wasn't feel like stock truck.

It will lock up torque convertor at 39-40 that way EARLY and rpm were 1100-1200.

Before I bought scan Gauge E from here. I calculate/write on paper. Most time it average 15.30-16 CITY with TRAFFIC. Long trip highway/country road 50-55 mph with boost under 0-2 psi only 18 mpg. That how I knew something is WRONG with this one. Hoping it 2 bad injectors affect it. It supposed to get 20-23 mpg from that.


On HPOP oil you really don't need change in my opinion. They flow almost 5 quarts of oil in 1 min at 500 RPM that what I heard.

I running 5w40 Shell T6 SYNTH so I knew it was band aid bad injectors during winter.


My project next week if guy had title to International truck I be pulling 8 injectors and swap 2 bad injectors in F350. Keep spare for later. Replace bad leak turbo and hook booster leak detector to find where leak.

Replace broke leaf spring on driver but had 2 new leaf springs to go on it. I was plan remove 4" block and swap with 2" to get rear end lower 2" down. It sit way HIGH than I like. Hoping it improve mileage by lower truck height.

Here picture of F350.
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l3...216_161416.jpg

Hi, I've gotten my basic info from an Atlanta shop guy at Powerstrokehelp.com and this video specifically http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1A3H1...eature=related
Seems to know what he's talking about.
Ed