2005 Focus ZX4
 

I am a newbie by post, a very inspired ecomodder by threads read, I have recently bought a 2005 Focus Se Fleet (SE badge, but more like an S model with a/c), unfortunately it has the automatic, but no cruise, neutral coast gives me .2-.3 gal/hr, my fuel log is up, averaging around 32.5MPG or so, I have done the lower air dam and a masking tape (temporary) grill block for both upper and lower, I have to save some more money as I have run out, I would like some input as to if I need to do better on the grille block or the lower air dam for now.

PS. The roll of masking tape fits nicely on the shifter for those quick modifications or repairs!

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...3&d=1432933966

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...4&d=1432933966

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...5&d=1432933966

Admin, how long before I can have my signature to the bottom of my posts?

Everything looks good to me!

Grill Blocks - you should keep an eye on engine temps. If they start to rise, you should cut away some of the grill blocks.

Suggestions on FREE mods - remove side mirrors, pump up tires to max sidewall PSI, cover the windshield wipers

air dam
 

From research,it's been shown that an air dam directly below the furthest point forward on the nose,or slightly ahead will have the best drag and lift coefficients.
Here's a 'straight-down' version,it's too low for the street but good design
http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/...2/HPIM1956.jpg
Here,on my truck you can see where the air dam is a little ahead of the nose,which gives it a bit of 'splitter' behavior as far as how the flow field is directed to the sides of the bodyhttp://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/...ntitled-11.jpg
Both styles have the same Cd.If you let any air under the nose the drag goes up :(

Kingster, it seems like all of the magic happens once you have five posts. Just one more!

Pretty sure Focus-AK has about as much of the lower grill blocked with no cooling issues but every car is different. I hope you have a gauge that reads engine temps from the computer because the gauge on the dash is just a glorified idiot light. I still haven't blocked my lower grill but it's on my to-do list when I find time to work on the car. Been thinking about exending the air dam like you did too but was worried about it not being "ideal". I guess it's better than nothing but could be better, but extending thr factory dam is just too easy lol

Roger on that. Max ambient so far this spring has been 60, but on my UltraGauge the coolant temperature runs about 190-195, sometimes a peak at 206 on a long hill. I'm quite amazed by that. There is a stock pan from bumper to just past the radiator, but there must be enough turbulent circulation into the engine bay from behind that, onto the backside of the radiator to bleed off some heat.

Welcome to Ecomodder and the Aerodynamics sub-forum. I also have a roll of duct tape on the shift lever. Apparently you not concerned with preserving the stock appearance, so that's good. How would the yellow duct tape compare with round-cornered aluminum rectangles and pop rivets? Sprayed with black Plastidip?

The rule is the opening only needs to be 1/6th the size of the radiator itself, given an ideal intake plenum. Part of it is the shape of the duct (and you have that pan), but the other part is not bleeding air around the radiator, so seal it up.

Probably instead of air circulating up from the bottom, radiator air is being pulled by a venturi effect at the bottom of the engine bay. Small, efficient intake and large inefficient exhaust.

Yay...My 5th Post.....back on topic, my coolant temps hover around 205-210F, still running stock airbox, I am not going to block completely on grille due to the fact that we can upper 90's temperatures and humidity in the upper 90% range also, so a/c is a must for when I can't stand it anymore.

I still need to do my 0-degree toe set

I need to do a tire balance (smooth at 60mph and below, but vibrate a little bit above that)

Waiting on the sherriff elections to get over (Free Coroplast)

Still gotta save the money up for the smooth wheel covers

You can save $50-$200 if you make the smooth covers out of coroplast. That is what I did and they work as the aluminum ones, and they're lighter. Just a thought :)