2005 Prius engine into 1986 MR2: mk1 1nzfxe Prius swap (gas only)
 

This is a 1nzfxe from a 2005 Prius. Here's a picture of me getting ready to put it in:

http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps9393f643.jpg


Yes, most people will be able to pick this motor up and carry it around. It weighs about as much as an e153, the transmission out of a mr2 mk1SC and mk2 turbo.

Aside from the weight and fuel economy, this is an atkins cycle engine. Well, it has an atkins cycle mode depending on what position the vvti cam is in. I currently have it set for on/off. This gives me two settings. 13:1 compression using the full 1.5L and 6:1 at 750cc's.

Here it is installed:

http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps523e4f76.jpg

Just driving it around, it actually feels stronger than the original 4age. This is in the 13:1 1.5L mode of course. The low comp/displacement setting will leisurely pull away from a light flooring it.

Toggling modes manually, I was able to get 37mpg where the various 4age's I've had would get 30, and the beams 3sge would get sub 30. This is running an echo ecu and no o2. Really a tune just good enough to run and drive.

Very cool, cant wait to hear more!

where it sits right now. I'm currently tuning it with a microsquirt. Running it on the 1nzfe ecu, it was pretty clear that high setting wanted to be richer, and the low setting wanted to be leaner. A stock ecu to run this would be nice....but simply doesn't exist.

In addition to having fuel economy benefits, I'm looking at cheap performance ideas for this motor. Say something that would get it to 4age 20v levels. Basically finding uses for $200 Prius engines.

A few questions:

Just to clarify, is this the 1nz-fe or 1nz-fxe?

So the vvt-i isn't automatic? On my Corolla, I don't do anything with it, it just does it's thing. Is this because your ECU doesn't have the software to control it?
What do you mean by full and half for the compression? Are you talking about half throttle? Also, why would the compression be half at 750CCs?
How do you get away with no O2 sensor, in terms of the engine running properly? I don't think I could do that here in CA, regardless.
Does this engine have belt driven accessories or electric? It looks like from your pic there are pulleys, but I just wanted to confirm.

What was wrong with the rich and lean settings? Did FE decrease with the stock ECU?

Was the 1nz engine really only $200?!

Also, TURBO!!!!! Just kidding, but seriously if you want performance, then that would be an option.

A bit on Atkins Cycle. Atkins cycle is where you delay the closing of the intake valve part of the way up the intake stroke. With vvti, I have the choice to use the entire stroke, or delay the closing of the intake cam until halfway up the intake stroke. This gives me two displacements and two compression ratios. Closing at the bottom, it's 1.5L and 13:1. Closing midway up it's 750cc's and 6:1. With a better ecu I could use some of the intermediate settings, say 1.3L and 8:1 or so, but for now I'm using a cheaper ecu.

Normal vvti is more to optimize cam overlap/duration. Less overlap at lower rpms and more at higher rpms. This is something that works with engine speed whereas what I need with the 1nzfxe is more based on throttle position. The idea with the 1nzfxe is to bring on the 1.5L 13:1 setting at above say 70% throttle and cruise with the 750cc setting.

With the lower comp settings, I could do FI. That's called a miller cycle engine, which is found in late 90's mazda millenias.

Yes, $200. Good condition. The reason is because Prius's don't end up in the junkyard because of their gas engines usually, and once there, the engines aren't used in anything else.

1nzfe's and 2nzfe's are a good choice for somebody not wanting to experiment like me. I'd say SZ engines would be good too, but those don't get imported into the US.

Badass! I envy you!

I see what you're saying now, it just took me a second explanation to understand. :rolleyes: You are choosing when you want the intake to be closed, which determines the compression and the effective size of the engine (or at least effective displacement). Do you have a button inside the car to tell the system what you want or is it still automated?

So, since it is from a Prius, that means you have the FXE? How do you get around the hybrid battery stuff? Is that why you need a different ECU?

I've gotta find me a place that sells these! For $200, experimentation is very possible!

Cool and resourceful

While running it on the echo ecu it's on a button. My aftermarket ecu can control engaging based on throttle position.

Car-part.com has lots of listings for these. Total throwaway engines.

One thing to keep in mind though is that you do need some 1nzfe parts to make this work, which raises the cost of doing this, but overall it's still cheap.

Creative modding! Adding this to the home page.

What year is the MR2?

86

Just for the record, what are those extra parts needed?

This is awesome! I'm anxious to see results once you have your microsquirt set up.

What transmission are you using? A C50 or C150? That's good to know that the 1NZ-FXEs are so cheap. I have a Yaris with a 1NZ-FE, and the FE has a high parts commonality with the FXE, so if I ever need engine parts. For performance, first thing I'd do would be to swap out the cams to those off of a FE, unless you want to keep the Atkinson cycle. Otherwise standard intake/header/exhaust, unless you plan to go forced induction. The stock header is particularly bad, I bet you noticed how the lead pipes pinch before the collector, very restrictive, the stock 1NZ-FE is well known to have low high end power because of it. Most after market headers are simply an enlarged stock design and only add to top end, but the Weapon R and DC Sports use different designs and add gains throughout the RPM range. What kind of crank pulley does the 1NZ-FXE have? The FE has a overly heavy, 3lbs, steel beast, swapping out a 3/4lbs aluminum pulley adds 1~2HP to the wheels. I'd suspect Toyota put a lightweight pulley on the FXE. Did it come with a flywheel? Again, the one on the FE is too heavy for the little engine.

From the 1nzfe I used:

-clutch, flywheel, pressureplate
-alternator
-starter
-intake/throttlebody
-dipsticktube/dipstick

I also used a fuel rail from a paseo. This allowed me to run a return type fuel system and avoid buying a more expensive pressure regulator. It required a fair bit of modification to fit, but not too bad.

I also kept the prius crank pulley. It's only 3rib, and the alternator is 4, but hasn't given me problems yet. If you wanted to run AC, switching to the 1nzfe pulley would be a good idea. The prius has a tensioner on the motor mount that has to be moved to clear the alternator.

I'm using an original mr2 c50 with a scion XA Bellhousing. A c150 has problems in the mr2 mounting the selector shaft in the opposite direction. That and it would have left me making a driver's side mount as well.

The wiring harness is made from scratch, which is not an issue for me. I've done a tremendous amount of toyota swap wiring over the years.

That might be an idea for replacing a blown 1nzfe. 13:1 is really high compression. Kinda on the edge for 93 octane gas. You would switch over your old cams. A 1nzfe ecu can't operate atkins cycle.

Actually some people with 1NZFEs have swapped in FXE pistons and it worked with the stock ECU and 91 octane.

Interesting, but for those of us not initiated into the inner mysteries of Toyotadom, could you point us to a translation of all those number/letter combinations?

Can't help but wonder how one (or maybe you'd need two?) would work in a pickup.

^If you are talking about swapping it into a Toyota mini truck, I would say the Yaris engine would have enough guts to haul around a 2,000 lb load with the truck. The stock 22re is 115hp and about 135 tq, but you dont need anywhere near that to idle the truck around

When I had a 96 Tacoma base 2wd 5psd, I was wanting to swap in a 90hp TDI engine into it

When I say 1nzfe, I mean toyota echo/yaris/xa engine.

This engine would be a good fit for:

-corollas
-tercels
-paseos
-mk1 and mk3 mr2's
-Celica St's and 2001+celicas

It could also go into camrys and rav4's, but you would be fabricating all 4 mounts, and not just the one.

To my knowledge there is no RWD bellhousing that will work with the 1nz bellhousing pattern. You would be stuck making an adapter plate.

Just for raw fuel economy without the experimentation a 2nzfe in an early 90's tercel would be the ticket.....just don't wreck in it (that or there are 3cyl motors that probably fit). 2nzfe is the 1.3L version of the 1nzfe. 2nz's are also pretty cheap.

@jamesqf:

You could put one in a truck. I recommend you put it in the back, for conveyance to someone who wants to mount it in a small car.

For something like a newish Tacoma, that's just too much truck for such a little engine. Yeah, it would get you down the road...eventually. As part of a hybrid system I think it would be a great setup. To be the only motivation under the hood of a modern Toyota PU, I think it would be an exercise in frustration. A brilliant exercise, but still frustrating.

If, on the other hand, you have an old Stout, a 45-year-old very compact truck hanging around somewhere waiting for a heart transplant, this might get the job done. The original Stout had comparable power and weighed considerably less than the modern Prius - in fact, its weight may have been comparable to this OP's '86 Mister Two. A 1NZFE might be a good repower option for a Stout.

You would want to use the highest octane that you have available. 91 probably gets you by, especially with the knock sensor.

NZ is the engine family.

1NZ-FE is the engine model for the 1.5L Otto cycle version, Echo, Yaris, xA, 1st Gen xB in US/Canada
1NZ-FXE is the engine model for the 1.5L Atkinson cycle version, 1st and 2nd gen Prius, Prius C (US)/Yaris Hybrid (Worldwide)
2NZ-FE is the engine model for the 1.3L Otto cycle version, this is an engine option for the Yaris in Europe/Worldwide.

Toyota NZ engine - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

mr, wouldn't it be hard to get a 2NZ here and to ship from Europe would be cost prohibitive. If I could afford it, I'd swap in a 1NR-FE, 1.3L, Dual VVT-i, Start-Stop, 99 HP/97.4 ft-lbs. Or a 1ND-TV 1.4L TDI.

I've looked into using a 1NZ in my third gen MR2 for some time. I recently realized that 2ZZ-GE cranks fit the 1ZZ-FE so it's extremely easy to destroke a 1ZZ-FE to 1.66L and thus shift its performance characteristics to something similar to that of the 4A-GE. I think I'm going to go with this when my 1ZZ gives up on me. The 1NZ can be used with C56 and C60 transmissions that fit my car, but you need a custom adapter (which someone has made before, they he turboed it and got a neat little monster that got 40mpg and could burn a little rubber when asked to).

It's awesome that you got a Microsquirt working with the 1NZ but I feel like you would've had an easier time just using a stock 1NZ ECU? Then you'd get automatic VVTi control. Well either way, it's great that you got it working, 1NZs have a number of aftermarket valvetrain and bottom end parts available so it would be hard to build the engine a bit if you wanted to. Like you said, the block is practically free.

If you are looking for a 1.6L ZZ engine, try tracking down a 3zzfe. There is also a 1.3L ZZ engine.....or you could consider the 3.5L 2grfe. I just wired my first one of those a few weeks ago.

The trick I used to get my mr2's c50 hooked up to the 1nzfe should also work with your sypder's c56. You would need to find a scion XA bellhousing. It's possible that you could use the XA transmission as-is, but I suspect the axles are different. But either way, you shouldn't need an adapter plate.

So far the fuel economy numbers have been using the OEM 1nzfe ecu. I have the harness I made set up to run the 1nzfe electronics, and then I support the microsquirt through an adapter. I can go back to the 1nzfe ecu at any time without any trouble.

I didn't know Toyota made mini-trucks. I'm pretty sure they don't get imported into the US. No, I was wrong about that, but I don't think they're highway legal: Japanese Mini Trucks | Custom 4x4 Off Road Mini Hunting Trucks | Japanese Imported Mini Trucks

I was thinking about the normal-sized pickup - mine's an '88 - not the oversized newer Tundra, or even the bloated current-gen Tacomas.

Yeah, that's why I was wondering about two of them. Mount them together, and have an inline 8-cylinder :-)

Oddly enough, I did once own a Stout. 1968 model, IIRC, though it was in the late 1970s that I had it.

The ECU out of a stock Prius? That might require lots of mods to work without the HSD. Anyway, who never considered about possibilities to use an entire Prius drivetrain into something with a more sporty look?

I don't think the 1NZ-FXE ECU would work without the HSD. I wonder if a FE ECU would work? I think the 1NZ-FE actually uses Atkinson cycle at idle and low load, I was looking at the VVT-i timing chart for the Yaris and at idle/low load the intake stays open until 52* ABDC. That's 29% of the compression stroke.
http://www.microimageonline.com/down...als/Engine.pdf
http://www.mr2.com/files/mr2/techinf...ata/1nzfxe.pdf

Prius cam profiles:

http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/a...psa3adfb26.jpg


Intake cam left, exhaust cam right.

The super long duration intake cam is what makes this an Atkins cycle engine.

So does the FXE always run in Atkinson? I think it does, according to the valve timing, it just varies from mild to heavy Atkinson 'effect'. Actually, it really isn't Atkinson cycle, since that requires a engine with a special crank that varies piston stroke length. It's more like a superchargerless Miller cycle, to create an Atkinson-like effect. Toyota actually calls it simulated Atkinson. About the FE and Atkinson, why would the intake stay open that long at low RPM? I could see at high RPM to insure a more complete intake draw, but at low speed I don't see how it couldn't intake enough charge to fill the cylinder. FYI, at high speed, the intake closes at 12* ABDC, low speed, 52* ABDC, that doesn't make sense to close the intake sooner at high RPM, unless you want a mild Atkinson effect. That would give you the results of lean burn at idle/low load, decreased fuel consumption, without the increased NOX emissions.

Hmm, I wonder if one of these would bolt up to a Daihatsu move mini kei van? Daihatsu and Toyo are close cousins and have interchanged parts at different times.

What would be one better though woudl be if you could get the WHOL frontend of the prius for about $200, then you could make other cars into hybrids :)

Don't those little Kei trucks/vans already get 50+ MPG? Atkinson cycle has horrible low end torque, that's why you only see it in hybrids were the electric motor can supply the low end torque to get moving. So I don't think it'd work well in a cargo vehicle.

Now what I'd do is buy a 1NZ-FXE (or a small diesel) and make a 'battery pack-less' series hybrid. Have the engine drive a generator to supply electricity for the traction motor/s, with start/stop, a small battery pack to supply power to start the engine/power the traction motor/s while the engine spins up, regenerative braking to charge the battery pack. You'd cut down on weight and cost without the huge battery packs in current hybrids, plus with hub traction motors you'd cut down on complexity, cost, and power transmission loss and the engine, since it only provides power to the generator, can spin at the peak efficiency rpm range. Basically this is how diesel/electric locomotives work.

An idea: Use an electronic gas pedal sender and open the throttle body to WOT at 6:1 CR before switching to 13:1 CR and shutting the throttle body to deliver the right power output. If it had continuously variable valve timing, it could be possible to cruise with the engine at WOT and the 6:1 CR setting and then gradually raise the CR to raise power output.

Those engines exist, but not in the US. I'd like to use a C60 or something later down the road, which is a direct fit into my car, but I want to keep as much of the stock engine as possible. Using a different engine requires a modified engine mount, drive axles, and making the exhaust fit 1NZ headers, and that's annoying. Though, the 1NZ is definitely better suited to my purposes, 43 pounds lighter. I'd be able to use overbored steel sleeves for a little more weight reduction.

If you are using the 1NZ ECU, why do you have the VVTi disabled? Or do you have it working and I'm just reading incorrectly?

Nah I was talking about a manual transmission Yaris or something. The Prius drivetrain is a neat little piece of machinery but I like rowing gears a lot :P

The 1nzfe ecu runs the vvti based on rpm. I want to run it based on throttle position. With the setup I have, the vvti actually needs to operate more like displacement on demand than normal vvti. That's the object. Cruise at 750cc's, and move to 1.5L when I need to.

In the case of the spyder, the key would be the 1nz XA bellhousing accepting the spyder differential. I think it probably would. At that point, you would use your existing axles and transmission mounts.

The most original thread i have seen here in a while! Nice. Subscribed!

That was my though too but it might not be practical. There is at least one stand alone throttle controller but the one I am aware of is ~$800. A couple of the high end engine management computers will do it too.

I'd love to try it.

Altough it would probably not be so popular back there, if the Prius would have a manual transmission at least as an option it would make sense, since it's more suitable to the hypermiling techniques.

This is great! mr220v, how much weight loss switching to the Prius motor?

Unfortunately not possible due the planetary gears being used to determine the relative contributions of the motor and engine.

That would demand some custom work to bolt everything, but it's not exactly impossible.