2016 Green Grand Prix TEAM ROSTER & DETAILS
 

Drivers, I hope to get your information for this post - please pm me or post info in your own post in this thread.

Last year (2015) I sent pm's to our EM GGP team to work up plans and go over any tech details. It was a bit cumbersome, primarily due to the limit on how many people can be included in one pm. So this year I will build a roster in this thread's first post here - and discuss plans in the thread.

One purpose of this roster is where possible, to adjust our fleet to cover as many classes as possible. It looks like we have multiple 4-cyl's competing, and probably several 3-cyl hybrids (myself included). Anything we can do to spread our coverage can help all of us.

CAR MODEL & YEAR - DRIVER & EM NAME - MODDED YES/NO

(I think I'm now caught up on updates to this list. Please pm me for any updates I need to make.)

2000 Insight - Bruce Pick - brucepick - Modified 3-cyl hybrid
Year? Insight - Robert Acevedo - sheepdog 44 - 3-cyl hybrid
Year? Car? - What's your name? - tf4624 - modded?
1993 Civic VX - Mike Loveland - mloveland78 - MODDED 4-cyl
1999 Civic HX - Your name? - MPGomatic - Modded 4-cyl
1993 Mercury Grand Marquis V8 - Ryan S. - svt98t - - Modded! V8
Year? Car? - Steven K. - UltArc - which car - Modded?
2013 Prius - Your name? - Vman455 - Modded 4-cyl
2008 Prius - Juha Cantori - Gasoline Fumes - Stock [not driving this year]
Centurion - '74 FIAT X1/9 - Jerry - changzuki - kit/home built, tiny diesel
2001 Dodge 3500 - Your name? - redneck - modded I-6 Cummins diesel dually flatbed truck


I hope you guys/ladies will contact me ASAP to confirm or deny the above, and advise of anyone I missed here. Once we have more cars ID'd, I'll group them by GGP Class so we will clearly see who we have in each class.

Drivers: Be sure to review the GGP Rules (see their web site) so you will know which class you are in. If I recall correctly, in 2015, the classes posted on the GGP web site remained as the classes run at the event. In prior years, I noted some flexibility in adding classes on the day of the event. I think what you see in this year's rules will likely remain as posted there.

I'm spectating only... but this is a good idea.

I haven't registered yet, but if I do, it'll be in a stock 2008 Prius. The Civic Wagon gets tossed into the exhibition class where it wouldn't be competitive because the tires are not the original size.

It looks like I'll be attending as a spectator. I can't borrow the Prius I was going to enter with.

I so want to come to one of these things but it's close to 800 miles each way. No great fan of NY roads or drivers in my tiny little car LOL.

regards
mech

Yeah, that's a pretty long trip, Mech! I drive about 300-350 mi to get there and it's a haul. We'll try to remember to hoist a cold drink in your honor. We'll hoist two if you show up.

It's looking more doubtful by the day for me. I'd rather not run in a modded class. The car has lowering springs and a slightly wacky nose. There's no aero benefit at the lower speeds.

MPGomatic, remember - In the GGP, modded class cars have a 50 psi limit on tire pressure. Stock cars are limited to 40 psi. So you could make a case that doing ANYTHING to make it a modded car, thus allowing higher tire pressure, is worth it! I saw Slambo's mods list - I'm sure some of your aero work pays off in mpg. Avg track speed is 45 but you spend plenty time between 45-55. I have no doubt that aero improvements help in the Green Grand Prix.

Of course if there are other reasons you can't realistically join us - that's cool.

For those coming from the south, the northern section of US 15 is mostly four lane now.

Grant, will you be joining us?
Details, please!

I live in Elmira, NY which is just south of WGI. I am available for a team support member /spectator. The road US 15 north of Wiiliamsport, PA is being upgraded to I-99. I do fairings for upright bikes mainly but I have automotive parts sales and engineering tech experience.

Cool. We'd love to see you there! I drive through Elmira every time I go to the GGP.

I'll be there. I just put the motor and trans in my car Saturday night. Now all I have left to do is hook everything up, change the engine harness, convert it all from EEC-IV to ODB II, start it, and make sure everything works properly, get the exhaust tips welded back on, and get it inspected.

I got this.


-ryan s.

Looks like you'll be pretty busy!
Welcome!

REQUESTING INFORMATION

Last year's track time sheets:
Looking for anyone with laps that earned them a point, with a lap time shorter than 3:14.437 (Jerry's lap in Centurion) or longer than 3:16.966 (I did that in my Accord). Please pm me. Mike L, I thought you sent me your sheet last year but I can't find it...

TURN ONE SPEED FOR HONDA INSIGHTS
This is my first year driving the 2000 Insight in the GGP.

Turn one has always been a key turn for me - I want maximum safe speed going into the turn so I don't have to pour fuel in, to get up the hill that follows. For anyone here with experience driving a 2000-2006 Insight in this event, what speed(s) do you like for entering that turn? Please tell. I assume Insights had stock Potenza RE92 tires - if different, please mention it. Thanks! Please pm me if you have any word on this.

Related, for all our drivers - Re. Turn 1: I strongly recommend you arrive at the end of the preceding straightaway over at the far left of the available roadway. Turn right so you cut across the inner corner of the right hand turn. Of course you can only do that if there's nobody on your right. You must check for that carefully.

Then when past the inner corner, continue on that path so you end up in a middle or left lane as you leave the turn. This path makes the turn much more gentle - that is, a larger radius. Otherwise it would be a very tight corner and will give you trouble unless going very slow.

Making big progress this week. The engine harness should be done and installed tonight. I still need to change over the PCM.
New water pump goes in, along with new lower radiator hose.
If all goes well, I should be turning it over Saturday evening.


-ryan s.

GGP Planning - Chap. 1: Fuel
 

This will be the first of hopefully several planning posts for this year's GGP.

Ethanol Free Fuel

I've been using ethanol free fuel for the GGP for a couple years now. I estimate at least a 5% increase in mpg when using ethanol free fuel, maybe more than that. There's a source just south of Watkins Glen, at:
Lake's Gas
2020 Highway 14
Montour Falls, NY
Phone: 607-535-8097

Starting today, I plan my fillups so I'll arrive for a fillup at my Pennsylvania pure gas station with a very low tank. Then I top up again at Lake's Gas just prior to the GGP mpg competition. That way I have the purest possible concentration of ethanol free fuel in my tank. When I get to the TOPS station for the official GGP fillup, my tank is nearly full. This year, with the road rally in the morning and the track event afterwards, I'll visit Lake's between those two events.

As I enter NY state driving west on I-84, I fuel up at:
Dutch's Market

1564 Highway 507
Greentown, PA
Phone: 570-676-3373

GPS has sometimes gotten the route wrong for the Dutch's Market address. You must go just over a mile SOUTH on Hwy 507 after exiting 84, not north. Dutch's is a decent size supermarket; not a bad place for a quick bite and a pit stop.


The key reference for finding ethanol-free stations is:
Ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada
They have apps for iPhone and Android. Check their site. It's been a long time since I used the app but it might be helpful.
Their listings are by state; for NY it is:
Ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada

Unfortunately you can't simply enter a zip code and find all the nearby ethanol-free gas stations. Each state covered has their own page, and cities/towns are listed alphabetically on the page. So the station you need might be right outside a major city but it will be listed by its address - which could be a tiny town. Usually the best way to find the station you need is to search manually, prior to your trip. Maybe the phone apps have a more automated search feature.

GGP Planning - Chap. 2: This is a Time-Speed-Distance Road Rally
 

Each GGP event is a Time-Speed-Distance Road Rally

We have some new people with us this year so it's probably smart for me to write a few words about this.

The first year I participated in the Green Grand Prix, I was a bit surprised when I discovered on the morning of the event, that I needed to know more about road rallies than I did. Hopefully your learning curve won't be as steep as mine was.

The GGP events are organized under the SCCA Road Rally rules. I'm convinced it would NOT be possible to organize such a large and successful event without the sanctioning of the SCCA or a similar organization - though I doubt there is any other similar organization in the US. It's also no accident that Bob Gillespie and likely others in the organization, have many years of experience in the rally circuit.

I decided some time ago that in order to support the event to the best of my ability, I would do my best participating in the rally component. I've enjoyed it.

I won't try to write here, all the rules and how-to's someone would need to be a competent rally driver. Google is your friend.

But I'll write a few things that are pertinent to the two Green Grand Prix events, and especially the track event.

The basic concept of time-speed-distance rallies is, you're given a route to drive. As you follow the route, you are periodically instructed to Change Average Speed To (CAST) x mph. Sometimes it's called CAS, for Commence Average Speed. Same thing. Your success at achieving the stated average speed over the segment is what determines your score for the segment. Your score for the event is the sum of your scores for the segments.

Scoring is done by the time measured between checkpoints. In the GGP track event, each time you cross the finish line is a checkpoint. Your time is noted electronically. On the road event, somewhere between 4-6 checkpoints are located along the route. You pull in when you come to a checkpoint, and your arrival time is noted on your score sheet. You don't know in advance where the checkpoints are. So, if you know you've been going too fast, you can't slow to a crawl just before the checkpoint to even things up. You need to do your best over the long haul.

The organizers do the math ahead of time - to determine the precise time needed for each segment, driving at the stated speed. Your arrival time is measured in hundredths of a minute in the road rally. In the track event, laps are measured to thousandths of a second.

Traditional road rally scoring is like golf: low score wins. You get a point for each hundredth of a minute you are off the ideal time for the segment.

GGP track event scoring is a bit different. Here, a point is a good thing. So for this event, high score wins. The ideal lap time is 3:16. That comes from the known 2.45 mile track length and the stated 45 mph average lap speed. [If you want to do the math, remember that a minute has sixty seconds, not a hundred.] The GGP sets a window of lap times that will earn a point. In 2015, any lap between 3:14 through 3:17 earned a point. Now, with the ideal time at 3:16, I don't know why you could be under by 2 seconds and over by only one second. But that is what we found when we reviewed our score sheets after the event. This year's scoring window may be the same, or different. But I expect the calculated time of 3:16 will be at the core of whatever scoring window is set.

The next time I write on this topic here, I'll go into some detail on HOW my brother/navigator Steve and I work to come close to ideal lap times.

Two quick tips - because you need to find these in advance:

1) If you can bring a digital stopwatch with you, do so. We got ours on Amazon. It's best if it will track more than 35 laps, but any stopwatch is better than none.

2) You'll need a tool to track average speed during each lap. Suggested tools:
SpeedTrackerLite (phone app)
RallyTracks, or Rally Tracks (phone app)
If using a phone app, get something to hold your phone to the dash. Your navigator will be busy with the stopwatch so you're likely handling the phone.
Or - a standalone GPS, such as a Garmin or TomTom

The tool you use must show average lap speed during the lap, to a tenth of a mile per hour. You need to be able to reset the average as you complete each lap. In the road rally event, you'll reset it at each CAST. [Go back to the top to reread what that means!]

Details on using both of these items in a later post. But I want to give you a head start on getting your hands on these.

I have to beat that light 200mpg car lol but I plan on beating it in a typical 3000lb car with a standard gasoline engine. The more particle solution to everyday vehicles on the road. Now doing with with Cenruion light car is great but not so particle

Light weight is useful but air drag reduction is key. A practical vehicle can be anything from a 3 speed bicycle to a minivan;)

practical, what i mean by that.. we should be able to buy whatever car and get at least 120 mpg on pump gas regardless of having 1000hp engine.

bike doesn't use gas.. doesn't count and isn't all that practical such as going on a 140 mile trip, lets say to grandmas house.

this is what i mean

I hate to inform all of you, but I will not be able to make it.
I ran into some timing issues and won't have enough time to fix it . I've been run ragged at work the past few weeks, and I barely have enough energy to stay awake when I get home, let alone, go out in the garage and work.
I do apologize, but i WILL be there next year.

-ryan s.

Aw, man, that's a bummer.

We will miss you.

Um, if they give you a huge break at work... any chance?? Probably not. If the car still needs stuff assembled, you can't drive a car that's not built.

Take care of yourself; get rest and good food.
And we'll look forward to seeing you next year.

http://www.driftingstreet.com/images...acing-line.gif

I prefer the driving line, but it seems many professionals succeed with the late apex. For some parts of the track I was using the longest route possible to extend miles traveled (EOC), but it seemed that FC was less by clipping the apex and maintaining higher speed out of the turn. Specifically, turn 5 (the outer loop) (short circuit, for newcomers).

I'm very excited, but my car was supposed to be finished this past Wednesday. Now I am relying on everything being completed the Wednesday morning before, so don't expect it to be painted, or to 100% stay on...I'm not ruining my lap time to pick up pieces and parts! :p

As of 27 seconds ago, I need a navigator!

Navigator needed - per UltArc's post further up above. This is important!

Corner path drawing:
This is excellent. Steve/UltArc, thanks for posting this. I had not seen these two versions of driving the corner before.

I think at least partially, which line is better depends on your car's handling and its ability to navigate tight corners.

Relating this specifically to Turn One at the Glen, I think the late apex line makes a lot of sense, at least in the Civic and Accord that I've driven on this track.

My reasoning: There's a gentle downgrade in the straight approaching the turn, but it's not enough to change your speed quickly. No real worries there. However part way into the turn, the downslope increases rapidly. If you take the Racing Line, your speed increases as you pass through the section where the words "THE RACING LINE" appear. So you're at or near max speed for the turn, at the point where you need to bend right, to straighten out . Referencing the tan and white patches shown on the outside of the turn, that point is at the second white patch. That may be the WRONG place to be going fast. Just a guess on my part.

Taking the "Late Apex" path instead, you execute a tighter radius turn at the beginning. Referencing the tan and white patches shown on the INSIDE of the turn, that point is at the first brown patch. You're still going at a pretty tame speed here, so a tighter radius turn is probably easier. The straightening out phase looks to be much more gradual, so it should be easier to execute while the hill is accelerating your car.

This year, in my new-to-me Insight... we'll see how it goes! It's not famous for superb cornering on those skinny low rolling resistance tires. But I love driving the twisties.

The only other thing I would add is that going down a slope straight (little lateral force) should maximize it- but pulling to a side may negatively impact 100% full advantage of the gain from the slope.

I broke my laptop and finally recovered my account on this new computer. I'm just going to spectate this year. I would suggest Gasoline Fumes as a navigator UltArc. I think he's really into rally racing from his FB feed. If you don't have a navigator by race day, you can count on me as a backup. I've already enjoyed the experience of being both driver and navigator, so i would prefer a member here to be able to have that experience for the first time.

Ryan S - was looking forward to seeing "Tank of Justice II".. Take care and get'er fixed up for next year.
Bruce Pick - the trajectory you posted for corner 1 is good.
UltArc - the trajectory you posted for corner 1 is also good.
With all 40+ cars on the track at once, it may be a good idea to keep your options open since you may not be able to get aligned pre-turn to execute the arc of your choice.
sheepdog_44 - if Gasoline fumes ends up being a navigator, can you be enlisted to get some Ecomodder photos?
-
~CrazyJerry

I actually misspoke, as I'm not doing the road rally! I need a co pilot on the track! Still in, Sheepdog? I hope so, but respect and understand if not! :)

Yes :turtle:

LEGENDARY. PM to follow.

GGP Planning - Chap. 3: Track layout maps and TURN NUMBER ID's
 

Here are a couple maps of the track.
This is mostly to set you up for the Chapter 4 discussion of fine tuning your lap times in an effort to get a decent (or superlative) score in the Time-Speed-Distance aspect of this Stage of the Green Grand Prix.

Also, for anyone participating in the GGP for their first time, these should be very helpful. (HINT!) We go around clockwise.

This line map with numbered turns gives a clear view of the track. I'll refer to the turns by number later in Chapter 4, in particular Turns 1 and 11. Also, note the Start/Finish line, located between Turns 11 and 1. BE AWARE: I've seen other maps of the track where the turns are numbered differently. Turns 1-4 are always numbered consistently, the variations are in the later turns' numbers.

Our event does not use the "Inner Loop" which follows after the Back Straight. We drive straight through. We also don't drive "The Boot", Turns 6-9 in this map. That's probably a good thing for us: it has a drop of 100' and of course the climb back up.

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikiped...ck_Map.svg.png

The elevation map is helpful in that it gives you some idea of the grades in this track. The map exaggerates the grades visually, but I'm sure the elevation feet notes are correct.

http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/gallery/pa...l__img__712140

Stop helping other people! Lol. Also note, these noted are the long course, we are on the short course. Essentially, on image 1, we finish turn 5 (outer loop) and that leads right into turn 10. I'd love to EOC at the top of 5 through 6 and 7, though! :)

GGP Planning - Chap. 4: Track Lap Times Strategy (a)
 

In Chapters 4 and 5, I'll do my best to get into the nitty gritty of how to aim for successful lap times in the GGP's track event.

This post is a follow up to GGP Planning - Chap. 2: This is a Time-Speed-Distance Road Rally

I've driven this event in 2011-12-14-15 (in 2013 I was out following surgery). Just about every year I've done a bit better in lap times scoring in this event. My first time, I knew next to nothing about Time Speed Distance rallies. Only doing this once a year, it's taken me a few years to got to some kind of competence on it.

Reviewing the basics:

Each lap is a "checkpoint" in the time-speed-distance rally. Instead of the traditional hut with a couple volunteers who note your arrival and departure times, the Watkins Glen finish line electronics log the time that you cross the line. This is recorded to thousandths of a second.

The stated goal is to achieve an AVERAGE lap speed of 45 mph. That's it.

So if you had a Ferrari with auto trans and cruise control, you probably could set it for 45 and it could peg that speed - within the limit of your ability to get it to PRECISELY 45 mph and set the cc for that. Also assuming the cc would NEVER let the car accelerate on a downhill.

So in the real world, how do we do this?

It's an ideal challenge for people who like math. I'm writing this chapter so you have a shot at some decent scores, without being a math nerd.

First, you need a tool that computes and shows your average lap speed as you're driving. It must show speed to a tenth of an mph. That is, 46.2 mph. You need to be able to reset the tool as you cross the finish line. In my car, the driver (me) operates that tool.

"RallyTracks" is a good app for this, for Android and iPhones. Or you can use a GPS if it has the capability. I have two phones with RallyTracks installed - on the newer phone (iPhone 5), it absolutely doesn't work properly. It works great on my iPhone 4. Go figure, ymmv. If this app is your tool of choice, get familiar with it in advance. You'll also need something to hold your phone to the dash.

My GPS has an average speed function that I could use for the GGP. The drawback: it requires two finger touches. One touch to "reset", and a second touch to confirm that you really want to reset. So the only way is to do the first tap while approaching the finish line, and then do the second tap right when crossing it. I expect that after the first tap, you won't see your average speed - but you won't need it any more either, until after you zero it for the next lap. Again, your GPS could be different - for this purpose, it could be better or worse than mine.

Second, your navigator needs a stopwatch. This is for capturing and recording your time for each lap.

One very important point is that after you press it to start the next lap (aka "split"), you still want to see your time for the lap that just ended! Without that, you have no feedback and the whole stopwatch thing would be pointless.

RallyTracks or your GPS will show you your average speed. But you're scored on lap time. The average speed information is only a guide towards achieving the perfect (or close) lap time. That's what the stopwatch is for - so you can see how well you did, immediately.

Remember there are all kinds of extra variables in play here - probably most importantly, how much you weave left-right on the track, and how precisely your device tracks that. Combine that with the fact that GGP scoring doesn't care about your many extra feet of travel - it only cares about raw lap time! So your average speed indicator, while an essential and critical tool, is only a starting point.

My excellent navigator (my brother!) tried using the stopwatch function in his phone but there were far to many times when his finger tap on the screen just did not do the job. Those timers aren't made for the responsiveness and precision we need. A car is a vibrating environment, whatever, it just was not reliable. And you have only one chance to hit that stopwatch button as you cross the finish line at each lap. So, beg borrow or steal a stopwatch. Sporting goods store or maybe a pawn shop. Watch counter at a Target or Walmart? It's probably too late to get a deal from Amazon or eBay. Maybe craigslist if that's your preference.

The stopwatch should ideally be able to track and record more than 35 laps or "splits", as they call them in the sports world. You don't really need it to be able to download data to a phone or computer.

Haha, UltArc. If anyone not on our team can find this stuff and also figure out how to use it in time for the GGP, well, fine. Last year I sent PMs with this type of material but it was a real pain. There's a limit of 5 addressees per PM so I had to send each one 2-3 times. I don't have time for that!

And yes, my post also indicates the parts of the track our event doesn't use.

GGP Planning - Chap. 5: Track Lap Times Strategy (b)
 

Now you have a stopwatch, and either the RallyTracks app installed and working, or a GPS that will show average speed TO A TENTH OF A MPH. Here's how I use them.

First, we calculated the ideal lap time. That's based on the track's known lap distance: 2.45 miles. At 45 mph, it works out to 3 minutes 16 seconds. As discussed in Chapter 2. And, as discussed there, expect the GGP to have a range of lap times that earn you a point, a point being a good thing. Last year the range was from 3:14 through 3:17.

Based on that, our target time is either the midpoint of that range (3:15.5) or the computed ideal time, 3:16. Hitting either should get you a point.

So, here's the drill:

Stopwatch:
Navigator handles the stopwatch. Hit the button each time when crossing the finish line. It is painted prominently across the track. Note: the track was refurbished and repaved for this year. I don't know exactly what it looks like now, but I think we'll be able to see the finish line. Navigator should have a clipboard. It will have a sheet where he/she can record the stopwatch lap time for each lap. After the event, Bob has been making the official score sheets available. This gives you an opportunity to see how close your finger-push was, to the track's electronic lap timing gear.

Average Speed Tool: RallyTracks app or a good GPS:

Driver handles the average speed tool. Either the RallyTracks app, or a GPS that will show average speed. It must read to a tenth of an mph. Zero it each time you cross the finish line. Note your lap time after completing each lap. Record the lap time on the clipboard.

If it's a GPS, as mentioned in Chapter 4, you might need two taps for the reset. The 2nd tap is to confirm that you really want to reset it. So you'd do the first tap while approaching the line, and the confirmation as you cross it.

RallyTracks app:
This very nice app has two minor drawbacks, as I see it.

Firstly, the display is a bit small. If you have a small pad computer with a dash mount, consider using that. Worth a try. Or you might be fine with the display on your phone.

Secondly, after you hit the reset (labeled "Monitor"), it gives no average speed info for about 30-40 seconds. I've never found it to be a real problem in this event. Somewhere in the approach to the back straight, that display starts showing data and it's all good. Just FYI. Not a problem, because you need to drive the grandstand straightaway (after the finish line), Turn 1, and the climb immediately after, as required by the road and your car. It's only after that, that you really have the freedom to adjust speed in an effort to hit a good lap time.

Using the Tools:

Here's what I did in past years:
Just keep an eye on the average speed. Keep it as close as possible to 45 mph.

Then - assuming your last lap was close to 45 mph on the display - see what your lap time was. If your avg speed was 45 (or 44.8 or .9, or 45.1 or .2) and your lap time was 3:16, that tells you that you can use an avg speed of 45 to hit ideal lap time.

What if it's different?
Suppose your avg speed was 45.0 and your lap time was 3:18.
Obviously you need to adjust. Go for a slightly faster average speed, and you'll get your lap time down to 3:16. The reason for the discrepancy isn't important. The avg speed tool helps you get into the ballpark. Don't assume it will be perfect.

GGP Planning - Chap. 6 Track Lap Times Strategy (c)
 

Here's something I struggled with in the 2015 event, and also in 2014.

I recently did a major math exercise to work out the solution to this problem. Hopefully someone here will find it helpful.

I was coasting the last two turns (#10 and 11 on the map), and typically emerged from the final turn #11 at about 38 mph. This was after achieving a nearly perfect average speed of 45 as I entered the two turns.

Well, that caused all kinds of trouble. Obviously I didn't want to burn fuel if not needed, over that distance. But emerging at well under 45 mph, I needed to accelerate to cross the finish line with a 45 mph average. Math indicates that I'd need to achieve something like 59 mph at the time I crossed the line, in order to average 45 between the start of Turn 10 and the finish line, thus restoring the lap's average speed to 45 mph. That assumes consistent ("straight line") deceleration through the turns and acceleration between the end of the turn and the finish line.

Well that solution is no good, because now I'm cruising a slight downhill at 59 mph, approaching a turn (#1) that I wanted to enter at about 40 - without ever touching the brakes! Not good. If you haven't driven this track before, just consider that with brake use forbidden, you'd probably enter that turn at about 25 with your mom in the car. Maybe 35 if you're not trying to prove anything. 50+ will risk serious trouble without brakes. Even 45 was hairy in my two cars.

So a few weeks ago, I did a whole bunch of calculations to determine WHAT AVERAGE SPEED - from the finish line to the start of Turn 10 - would let me emerge from Turn 1 at say, about 38 mph?

Of course the easy answer is, "just go a bit faster from the finish line to turn 10". And you'd be right. But, how much is a little?

Well, multiple calculations in Excel, through three versions of the spreadsheet, gave me this result:

Calculated average speeds for Finish Line through Turn Start of Turn 10
Exit Turn 11 at 36 mph: avg 47 mph
Exit Turn 11 at 38 mph: avg 46.5 mph
Exit Turn 11 at 40 mph: avg 46 mph
Exit Turn 11 at 42 mph: avg 46.6 mph
Exit Turn 11 at 45 mph: avg 45 mph

I strongly suggest you write or print this out. Add it to your navigator's clipboard.

One important component of this, not yet stated:

The calcs above assume you will maintain your Turn 11 exit speed until you enter Turn 1. That is, all the way down the straightaway, through the finish line and on to Turn 1. I am guessing that this is doable, and also gives you an opportunity to coast that stretch, thus saving fuel. If it plays out slightly differently on the track, so be it. Anyone using this logic will have to see how it plays out, and make minor adjustments during the event.

So, to repeat:
The table shows AVERAGE SPEED from the finish line through the start of Turn 10. So you zero the RallyTracks app (or GPS) as you cross the finish line. However, you exit Turn 11 at whatever speed works for you and your car - and MAINTAIN that speed until you enter Turn 1. That's what the calculations are based on. It's based on you NOT trying to achieve any particular average speed at any time between the finish line and the top of the hill after Turn 1. Just drive that stretch the way your car needs to drive it. Then use the stretch after the hill climb, up to the start of Turn 10, to achieve the average speed in the table above.

I expect this information to give me the best combination of lap times plus MPG that I've been able to achieve. I hope it does the same for any other EcoModder who uses it.