22 Maverick mileage and mod thread
 

This is the mileage and modification thread for my new 2022 Ford Maverick XL. It was ordered September 2021, and delivered 1-10-2022. It's the base model with only one option - a bed mat.

Since it's a hybrid with automatic grille shutters, there is no opportunity for adding an air dam, grille block, alternator kill switch, or engine kill switch. I plan to drive it as is through summer to get a base line, then add an aero topper Fall 2022.

On a recent cold start at 0 deg F, I backed out of the garage, and checked the trip mileage at 0.25 miles. The trip mileage at that check point was 6.6 MPG, worse than my old Canyon which would have got 9 MPG at the same point and under the same conditions. When everything is warm, that same route can be done electrically. The engine ran continuously, even with foot completely off the gas pedal, for two miles before shutting off. After that, it cycled on and off normally.

The hybrid engine is programmed to keep running until the battery is warm enough to take a charge and until warm enough to get useful heat out of the heater. This suggests an opportunity for significant mileage improvement on cold weather short trips by preheating both the engine and the high voltage battery.

At my normal speed in a 55 limit of 57 MPH and at 10% power on the power meter, the instantaneous mileage varied from 25 to 40 MPG apparently depending on the state of charge in the high voltage battery. This also explains the poor mileage at the start of a trip after a cold start. It suggests an opportunity to improve mileage on shorter trips by charging the high voltage battery to 100% charge when parked. The last three miles of a typical trip home are almost all on the electric motor, so I typically leave home with a low charge in the high voltage battery.

I have no plans to do either the preheating or high voltage battery charging at this time.

I would be apprehensive to charge a 1kwhr lion battery, during the cold it would need to be under 80% soc not to incur freezing damage also tough to know how closely the Maverick tracks and it might freak out if it starts at an unexpected soc

Should be possible to get control of stuff via OBDS/canbus

Batteries and Ford windshields hate being cold.

0F DEGREES
 

At 0F, the engine will run to warm up cabin and battery, so it starts at moderate load and runs rich to warm up the exhaust that has a heat exchanger on it for the heater core and battery cooling/warming, that may be burning lots of fuel.

On my C-Max PHEV, if I look at instant MPG, at 55MPH and when engine is charging battery it will show 20MPG, so you might be fighting that.

I took photos of the underside. The first photo is under the front bumper looking to the rear.
https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1644444535
There is no air dam, except for a spat in front of each front tire. The underside is belly panned from the front bumper back to the rear axle, with gaps for the front suspension and exhaust system. This truck is front wheel drive, and the hybrid does not have a four wheel drive option. Ford did not leave space for a drive shaft to the rear axle in this vehicle.

The next photo is under the rear bumper looking forward.
https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1644445150
The belly pan stops at the rear axle. There is no rear diffuser underneath, just an open area. But that open area is above the belly pan, so does not have high velocity air hitting things. This is consistent with a figure from Aerodynamics of Road Vehicles by Hucho:
https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1644445919
The largest drag reduction comes from belly pans extending from the front bumper back to the rear axle, with only minimal benefit from belly pans after the rear axle.

I do not intend to experiment with front air dams or belly pans on this truck. Ford did too good a job, and I see no opportunity to make a noticeable improvement in this area.

So shiny. If ever there was a good time to mod the underside, new is cleanest.

My hybrids have lots of problems with the cold, mainly, they are too efficient. The engine must run terribly retarded to burn more fuel and heat up the engine quicker. Block heaters help, but I need to get higher powered ones put on the cars than the stock ones that barely keep the engine in the 30's (Fahrenheit) when it's below zero.

Something I've always wanted to do is add a heat exchanger on the exhaust like with the gen 3 Prii to warm things up quicker. (I'd also like to add some sort of HV battery heater as the NiMH batteries don't have any, but that doesn't apply to this thread). I'm also interested in wrapping the exhaust with insulation so the catalytic converters heat up quicker and stay that way. Of course keeping them from overheating in the summer would be a concern, but maybe that can be dealt with via water injection or something similar.

Anyhow, those are my observations with modern hybrids. If you can heat the engine, the catalytic converter and maybe perhaps the HV battery (if needed) you can get summer-like fuel mileage in theory. But what would be the most efficient and cost-effective way to do that?

duckduckgo.com/?q=basalt+tape+insulation&ia=web

https://basalt.guru/wp-content/uploa...salt-tapes.jpg
www.basalt.guru/basalt-tape-aka-lava-wrap-for-improved-performance/

Basalt, not fiberglass.

do you use any block heaters? noticed youre in gunnison. gorgeous area! was -8 degrees in the sunny morning when i went in february. ive always wanted to install a block heater for my ioniq since cold engines give horrible mpg, and they cant provide any cabin heat for those chilly mornings!

I currently have a "stock" block heater on the Avalon. It's called a "cartridge" heater and slips into a specially designed hole on the engine block. It works ok, but only keeps the engine at about 30°F above ambient temperature and takes several hours to reach it, so in the winter the engine may never be above freezing when I start it. I think it's 200W but am unsure.

In the past I've used 1,500W circulating tank heaters on other vehicles such as a 1.6L 1985 VW Golf diesel engine. That heater would make a difference in as little as 15 minutes. 2 hours or less would have the engine up to running temperatures even in freezing temps. I'd like to get a couple of these again, one for each of my cars.

I had a 150W heated oil plate heater on the 1972 VW Super Bug that worked ok for an aircooled engine.

Hmmm I wonder if there’s one with my Hyundai Ioniq. It hates the cold!

Circulating tank heaters are universal and go on the heater coolant hoses. They're just tricky to get in the right place because they have to be low for them to work and they need to come from a low point on the engine and go in a high point which usually means the water goes backwards through them from the way it goes when the engine is running. This can burn them out if you forget to unplug the block heater when go to start the car.

Back to the original purpose for this thread.....

The heater kept the cab warm at -22 deg F with the heater blower on the slowest speed. At speeds lower than about 35-40 MPH, the engine runs to maintain heat. This is one reason for the loss of mileage on cold days and low speeds.

This truck is powerful. I passed a car on the highway by flooring it until past the other car, and reached 80 MPH. It then shifted into electric mode when I lifted off the gas pedal.

I have been using Normal and ECO modes. The ECO mode turns off the engine at slightly lower temperature, and holds it in electric mode until slightly higher power than Normal mode. The differences are small, and I did not notice any significant change in MPG. A true comparative test is difficult because the MPG is so sensitive to temperature and wind.

The gas mileage is sensitive to outside temperature. Highway mileage at 0 deg F is about 35 MPG, while about 42 MPG at 30 deg F. Both numbers vary depending on the wind. I am eagerly awaiting warmer weather.

Pulse and glide is easy. One challenge is that lifting off the gas switches to electric mode with regenerative braking activated. In order to glide, it is necessary step on the gas just hard enough to hold the regenerative braking to zero. P&G would be much easier if the default regenerative braking was changed to zero. Regenerative braking would still be activated by the brake pedal.

A binary driver, one who is hard on the and hard on the brakes with little coasting, will not benefit from a hybrid. Such a driver will spend little time in electric mode. Hard on the brakes means that little regeneration energy will be collected.

So far, after almost 2000 miles, the dash MPG meter reads about 3.4% higher than actual measured tank mileage.

So far, after almost 2000 miles, the dash MPG meter reads about 3.4% higher than actual measured tank mileage.[/QUOTE]

You can adjust the dash mpg meter to get it closer to actual measured mpg's.
There's a ratio adjust you can enter in the dash, I've done it, it works, on my
Ford Fusion.

I would think the Maverick would have that ability too.

Today's tank fill calculated to 49.0 MPG, while the dash display said 51.8 MPG. Frustrating because it would have been about 50 MPG if not for the last 100 miles in rain with a headwind. The gas mileage of this truck is VERY sensitive to temperature. Approximate numbers:

0 deg F - 35 MPG
30 deg F - 40 MPG
60 deg F - 49 MPG

My driving technique has been fairly consistent since the first tank. I am not looking forward to next winter's cold temperatures. My driving is about 90% highway, almost all in 55 MPH speed limits. I normally drive about 1 to 5 MPH over the limit. This is a little slower than most people drive in this area, but fast enough that few people get upset. Today, Saturday of Memorial Day weekend, was a little different. I had 8 tailgaters (less than one car length behind me) at various times in a 200 mile trip.

The dash MPG display is about 3% optimistic in 0 to 30 degree temperatures, and about 6% optimistic at 40 to 60 degrees. I was unable to find any way to adjust the ratio. The density of gasoline changes about 3% over that temperature range, which might have something to do with the difference in accuracy.

The truck has an automatic grille shutter. That shutter does not close completely, even at -22 degrees with or without the engine running. I would sure like to know why this is the case. I assume that there is a need for some airflow through the engine compartment at all times.

I was driving in NORMAL mode until 3-14-2022, and ECO mode since then. There is not much difference between the two modes. The largest difference is that in ECO mode and cold weather with the heater running, the engine will shut off at slightly lower coolant temperature.

Hey Michler, do you use fuelly?

Any updates on this?

I see that several manufacturers are working on providing lowering springs. Seems like low hanging fruit on this truck.

I'm looking to get one soon. Just waiting to see what the 2023s will offer. Want aPHEV, but will probably just try to find a 2022 hybrid if that isn't one of the options this year. (Ordering for 2023 opens 8/2!)

behind the rear axle
 

In Hucho's 2nd-Edition underbody research, for the Audi 100-III, all the forward belly panels allowed for the rear panel, which provided as much drag reduction as the forward panel.
If a 2.8-degree upswept 'diffuser' took the place of the 'level' rear panel, the Audi would experience an additional 20% drag reduction.

basalt
 

Isn't super-cooled molten basalt an amorphous volcanic glass?

duckduckgo.com/?q=basalt%20fiber%20environmental%20impact

'composites'
 

Thanks!
Are they talking about basaltic glass fiber as a replacement for rebar in reinforced concrete? I'm curious about the association with 'steel.'
As far as thermal blanketing and heat-shields, I'd love to see header wrap for 1/10th the cost of fiberglass!
All of our recycling centers will no longer accept glass. They're just sending it all to the the landfill.
Which I suppose is good for me, and my drive to Honolulu, when the Pacific is finally filled with discarded plastics.

The rebar replacement I have seen is a large pore mesh/sheet/roll

https://basalt.guru/

A good overview here. Fabrics, composites and rebar.

Piotrsko -- duckduckgo.com/?q=basalt+geotextile

That be the stuff I have seen mostly for patio slabs and walkways. Driveways tend to be orange snow fence style.

'fabrics'
 

Cool! All the remnants can go in the ocean, undergirding the Pacific Gyre!

Drove 2139.1 miles, and burned 42.93 gallons, for the last four tanks, for average 49.8 MPG. SOO close to 50 MPG.

Almost all of my highway driving is on rural roads with 55 MPH speed limits. On those roads, I normally drive 55 to 60 MPH, and struggle to get 50 MPG on the dash display that reads slight over 2 MPG high. On shorter trips at 25 to 40 MPH, 60 MPG is easy, and I've seen 70 MPG once or twice under ideal conditions.

I'm currently trying to figure out how to build an aero topper that will not leak water into the box. Other trucks have a gap between the box and cab for water to run down. This truck does not. Water that runs off the rear of the cab needs to be forced to drain to the sides.

EDIT: I have no plans to make any changes underneath. There is already a recall for this vehicle to increase airflow through the grille (and thus drag) by removing some of the grille shutters and drilling holes in one of the pans. Apparently, Ford believes that underhood temperatures can get too high under certain conditions.

Buy a normal topper, chop it at an angle, place the mounting flange on the bottom, done but not possible to open unless you hinge the whole kabootle with big shocks.

https://ecomodder.com/forum/member-f...02-5-26-32.png

Picture substitutes for one of the Camper World race Trucks. They all have a spoiler that height. A slant-chpped topper would want to follow that line.

The bed isn't much longer than a 1948 Buick hood. Aluminum instead of steel. Scavenge the latch/hinge set for each side and it will tilt either way or come right off (unless safety lanyard).

Well generally, any time a vehicle is lowered and the same degree of rake is maintained, pressure under the front end is reduced - which should draw more air through the grill.

I have to wonder what is happening with this thing though:https://a57.foxnews.com/static.foxne....jpg?ve=1&tl=1

You can use the lowering springs from the 2020 and up Ford Escape, (at least with the ecoboost option), not sure on hybrids

check with the folks at: mavericktruckclub.com

what is happening
 

Perhaps it's for the NASCAR truck series?

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/fo...hybrids.20763/

Here we go again, worse than 2022 and dealers are getting very few allocations

I wonder if the condition they are mitigating is when towing? I would assume it's a worst case type of situation with heat generation.

Now that summer is well behind, I have summer MPG to report. I burned 62.74 gallons driving 3145.1 miles, for 50.1 MPG. My driving was about 75% highway in 55 MPH limits, where I normally drive 57 MPH and average about 46 MPG. The short trip driving with average trip length 5 to 7 miles brought the mileage up.

This truck is very sensitive to temperature. The short trip mileage starts to drop when the temperature is below about 70 deg F. This truck would benefit from a block heater.

I finally have a trailer hitch. It's a $100 option, but that option was not available when I ordered this truck. So I bought a $17 hitch receiver tube and welded it on, then bought a wiring harness from etrailer.com for about $130. Its first use was to drag an old dock to the dump:

JR, what drive mode do you keep the truck in?

Have had my hybrid Maverick for 3 months now and love it, still working on maximizing highway mileage. I saw on MTC someone recommending slippery mode due to lower recharge current during regen, but I find it harder to force the truck into electric mode while it's on slippery. But it can also be hard to keep the gas pedal 'floating' between electric and hybrid when you just want to coast.

My display has been averaging about 5% higher MPG than my actual. Wondering if there's something in Forscan that can help calibrate that.

I used ECO mode for a couple months. Since then, I have been leaving it in Normal mode. There is no difference of the engine temperature at which it allows electric mode. The gas pedal response is more predictable, and it is easier to find the coast setting. It is easier to control the amount of regen when using the brake pedal in Normal mode than ECO mode. I did not see any difference in MPG between the two modes.

I found that it will seamlessly switch between Neutral and Drive at any speed, which makes long coasts easier plus allows resting my right leg.

My display also reads almost 5% higher than actual MPG.

I'm working on a design for an aero topper. My current thought is to make it slightly lower than the center brake light so that it will keep its functionality, and eliminate the need for a brake light on the topper. Getting a water tight seal between the topper and front of the box is a real challenge because the box and cab are one piece. A simple gasket between topper and box requires water to drain uphill. The design is complicated by my requirement for a hinged lid, which requires clearance between the topper and the cab.

Something to look forward to. :thumbup:

thermal wrap exhaust
 

Do you think a thermal wrap on the exhaust system would help speed up the warming and then the E-motor might kick in earlier, especially on colder days?

Tell us more about this: https://ecomodder.com/forum/avatars/wax87.gif

A few of the folks over on the mavericktruckclub.com site have used slippery mode to get the highest MPG results!!!